Saturday, November 9, 2013

Lauca park

This has sort of been the highlight of my trip throughout northern Chile, and a tremendous way to close this chapter of Chile. It was a needed trade of hostals and mining towns, to pitching up my tent and enjoy the huge, Swizz-like mountains! The Lauca Park is situated in the Andes between Chlie and Bolivia at 3,500 to +5,000 masl, with snow covered volcanos reaching +6,000mbsl! Very impressive! I spent a few days in Putre dealing with high alltitude sickness and enjoying the spectacular surrounding, and later camped out at Chungara Lake (at 4,500masl), before heading over to Bolivia.



Putre (at 3,500masl) is the main village in the park, and although very small, will provide you with everything from lodging and food, to petrol (ask around, it is sold in houses and hostels). As Putre was revealed to me when I came over the last climb, I stopped mindblowned! Even though I have never been to Switzerland, the view was like taken out of a post card!! I also very much appreciated the warmth and openess of the locals, and took delight in watching them herd their animals to and from their breeding ground at dusk and dawn.


As I drove into town, I easily found the main square, and the tourism office. He gladly answered my questions, gave me maps, and recommendations. I was able to set up my tent on the soccer field just toward the end of town, and when set up, I headed back to enjoy a warm cazuela (Chilean soup and dinner). I heared romours about a party that night, and upon asking, was given directions. Later on that night, as I followed the sound of dance music through the town, I eventually found the place of the gran party. Not very impressed with the almost high-school-dance sort atmosphere, I ended up drinking some beers with a group of road construction workers. As the night went on, more people joined the party, and it turned out quite well!


Having my cup of coca-tea
The next morning I was stuck in my tent with a terrible headache until early afternoon, with what I did not know at the time was not a hangover, but high altitude sickness (probably a good mix of both)! "Acquired at high altitude or in low air pressure, resembling a case of flue, carbon monoxide poisoning, or a hangover" - Wiki. The recommended "cure" is to drink plenty of liquid (surely beer does not go into this category), and especially the coca-leaf tea. - Although an attempt was made to break camp and see more of the park, I remained in Putre that day!

A German couple I stumbled upon
The day after, I was determined to set out early, to enjoy the ride toward Chungara Lake. I made a few stops to appreciate the unique wild life that exist at this alltitude. The "caves" did not prove very impressive, though it was a great spot to shoot some rabbits and vicuñas (photos ofc!). I also had to stop to marvel at the wild llamas grazing at the side of the road. Also, the road windes through some stellar landscapes and rock formations, but at times like that, it is just a treat not having to stop to take photos, but to fully enjoy the magnificence.


The very unique rabbit
Black bird in the sky

Vicuño



Finally arriving at Chungara Lake, I parked my bike and took a walk to see the stunning view of snow covered volcanos and mountain tops around the lake, and a range of exotic birds and fauna just on the water line. As the sun was starting to decline, I was offered a spot at the vacant camping (with a spectaular view of the lake), but (almost) most importantly, the park guardians let me cook some food in their cabin!! (After my previous failed attempt to use my cooker...) Along with the fresh supply of mountain water, my delisous pasta dish with tomato sauce and sausages, and the not to shabby view point of the lake, I was pretty content!


Lake Chungara

Llama llama llama llamallamallamama

The line-up to cross over to Bolivia

Now that is before the sut really was setting, at the temperature was dropping too rapidly. At 4,500masl, Lake Chungara is the highest in the world, and it gets to about -10C at night, sometimes with heavy gusts. I managed okay with my thick MEC sleeping bag, but I suffered an intense hangover headache from the cold night and the high alltidude, thus was not leaving the tent until midday next day, after taking some headache pills. : / Very funny, with my tent open for ventilation, I noticed some curious faces looking in from the other side of the meter tall stone wall encircling my camping spot. I later noticed it was the children from the vendor working at this touristic spot. - They must have really wondered what was wrong with this strange person!!

I was feeling fine by early afternoon, and after a cooked delicious lunch (from the day before), a some really dark clouds were approaching and I set off to the Bolivian border in a hurry! On my bike, I past the Km:s long line-up of trailers. I felt very little among these huge trailers as I cruised around the border to get the paper work done! - Everything went well!

Although I have been previously exposed to high altitudes, ...in San Pedro, and told to drink the coca-leaf-té and take extra precautions to acclimatize better, as usual I thought of myself as a superman! Still, the amazing scenery has made me confident that I will come back again, despite the alltitude!





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