The Moon Valley - San Pedro The Atacama

I´d never get myself into one of these!

The Moon Valley is as impressive geologically as it is stunningly beautiful. I rented a bike from the hostel (thought it would be good idea with some exercise) to check out the Moon on Earth. Although the park isn´t far away from San Pedro, nor that big, I spent a good six hours marvelling at the out-of-this-world rock formations, landscapes and natural history that is preserved in this unique place. It is strongly recommended to visit the park in the early morning or the afternoon (and stay for the sun set), because the sun is very strong.


Since my German room-mates were leaving for Uyuni in the early hours, I was ready to set off on my day´s adventure in the early morning. I carried with me a backpack with my 2 liter Camel-bag and food for the day ,and enthusiastically biked through the vast desert, saluting the road-construction workers along the way. After 20 min I reached the entrance / ticket office, where I enjoyed a very interesting and informative exhibition of the geological history of the area (in Spanish), and some shade from the ever present sun (for us Swedes, we don´t do well with desert heat / sun). (There was a group with a guide who was explaining everything in English!)

Strategic photo-seshion break

On the way up the first really steep hill, I noticed my fitness was way off the charts. I thought to myself, "Even if I haven´t been exercising actively for some time, this is ridiculous!" But before taking my photo sesh break, I guide passing my on her bike explained, "It is the high altitude!" as she continued onward ...

The name of the park was obviously adopted due to the resemblance of the moon´s surface, and sure enough, many of the things you see don´t seem to belong, but to another planet. 

The Moon

The Amphi Theatre: This formation was the result of thin layers of materials (sand, salt and clay) that were destroyed due to movements in earth´s crust. This formation normally occurs when a separation at lower levels makes the surface level drop in this manner. It is a spectacular sight!

The Amphi Theatre

A salty landscape

No, its not snow! ...its the moon!

The Three Maries: Only two remaining (someone "accidentally" pushed the third over) represent a formation of intense erosion processes that have shaped the rock into what it is today. These ladies have been around for an impressive one million years.

Me and the Maries

"Onix, I choose you!"

..and the Great Sand Dune

The Great Sand Dune! The sand has accumulated for over thousands of years on top of what was once a natural barrier and now stands as the base for the dune. This is normally the end of the park, but you can also visit the salt mines..

.. which I naturally decided to do! Although there was no cave, I found the setting very fascinating, with a great view point of the grand white landscape! It sort of reminded me of an apocalyptic waste land, with little life and lot of... "waste land".

The entrance to the mine

a salty pond in the mine

An apocalyptic waste land (aka. The Salt Flats)

I noticed on my way back that more people were arriving in the afternoon. I had not been informed that the park offers an excellent spot for watching the sunset. Do keep in mind that you cannot enter the park after 6pm, so you need to get there earlier to enjoy the actual sunset much later. These are some shots from the way back:

I recommend to visit the park in the morning or in the afternoon, as the sun is very strong during midday. Also, do bring plenty of water and sun-block! If you are interested in the geological explanations of the formation of the sights, I´d recommend taking a tour, private guide, or a friend that can translate the information available in the exhibit!

- Enjoy!!

San Pedro de Atacama

San Pedro, located in one of the few oasis in the Atacama desert, is a can´t-miss-stop if you are travelling through the northern parts of Chile. The village lies in the centre of the many "out-of-this-world" landscapes, natural wonders, and rock formations. The many down-to-earth "extrameños" (foreigners, even though from Chile) mixed in with the native population, contribute to a deep-rooted tourism with a strong emphasis to preserve the unique charm of San Pedro. The many hostels offer tours and information of all the sights you would want to see. - I must admit it I had gladly stayed for longer! 

The Finish owner of the local alehouse,
with an impressive 17 years in San Pebro!

On my first day in San Pedro, I walked around the village talking to some of the local business owners. Although there is a tension between the indigenous community and foreign business initiatives, I think so far, the latter has only contributed positively with its unique products and services to the small oasis. Like the French bread-maker, the Finish alehouse owner, and the Bolivian artisan handcrafts. I past by a local drinking his Argentinian "mate" in the street corner. All in all, despite the heavy touristy summer season, it provides a unique retreat from city stress and commotion, and a centre for exploring the magnificent landscapes surrounding the oasis.

The main street is filled with the various agencies that takes you about everywhere, even up to the Salt Flats of Uyuni in Bolivia. There are several bars to enjoy the Chilean artisenal beers and some food. Interestingly, there are no dance clubs nor places opened after 12-1 am due to tension with the indigenous population. (And with respect, I can only imagine what this marvellous oasis would turn into with hostels and parties raging until the sun rise.) Still, I very much enjoy the calm town atmosphere, especially after a day touring the valleys and surrounding mountains!

Some of the big attractions are:
Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley)
http://motorbiketoursa.blogspot.com/2013/10/the-moon-valley-la-valle-de-la-luna.html
Valle de la Muerte (Death Valley)
The Geysers
http://motorbiketoursa.blogspot.se/2013/10/the-geysers.html
The Salt Lakes.

 I will cover these with some pictures and info! - Coming soon!

A ´Mining tour´ in the Chilean mountains

So, on my map, the beautiful road towards La Punta Choro were identical to the road leading through the interior up to Huasco, where I wanted to finish the day. "Great!" I thought to myself (seriously misinformed!) as I wanted to enjoy more of this stunning landscape. - For my birthday (coming up soon) I wish for a map with elevation indicated, especially since I don´t think Peru nor Bolivia will be much easier! :)

And the truth is, I fully enjoyed the morning, perhaps the best route I have taken this far on my trip. The dirt road going through a wide empty landscape with no one but me, and a few wild goats and donkeys! Moreover, without the otherwise common wind, I fully enjoyed the 25HP and comfortable dirt road leading on towards the horizon! I thought to myself: "Man! This is what I have been dreaming about! Whoo hoo!" Accelerating a bit more* :)

Wild donkeys

Goats on the run!

When I arrived to El Morado, I kindly asked for directions of an old gentleman. With his think Chilean accent he (strongly) advised me head back to the highway, but likewise indicated my desired route up north. When I came to the cross road between these two, I noticed an acute drop in quality, but thought to myself; "eh, can´t be that bad! And how boring isn´t the highway!" This is where you should heed the advice of the old man: Head straight toward Ruta 5!

(Mom and dad, the following text is highly exaggerated for story-telling purpose!*) 

It turns out to be a pure mining road with nothing but big trucks and huuge mountains for the better part of the day. Truthfully, I have not seen anything more epic, nor driven anything more extreme in my life. As I was continuously hoping for better road conditions, I had always passed the "let´s go back" point and thus continued on forward. Into the deep valleys of the colossal mountains, through narrow passage ways, up the steep mountain sides on extremely snaky and at times sandy (big No No for motorbikes) roads, and down the other side. At the crest you could see the continuation of the road on the neighbouring mountain tops, swindling up and down the mountain sides. Epic, but a morale killer! :)

Looked liked abandoned machinery

You can make out the road rolling over the landscape

Snaky roads eh!

With at times little hope of ever escaping this endless landscape of mountains, and a killing desert-like heat, hope was rejuvenated with help from friendly truck drivers, always surprised to see a motor biker this far off-road! ... :) Finally, I started to see road signs again, and thought to myself, "Now we can´t be too far away from civilization!". jajaja,... Sure, after another master decent, and an hour through a hilly landscape, I finally arrived at highway 5 again! 

I don´t recommend this route to anyone, who is not up for an extreme adventure ofc!

It was very scenic, and for sure something I will never forget! Now onward on roads actually recommended to me, towards San Pedro de Atacama!  - Over n out

La Punta de Choros

Punta de Choros was something most people had recommended to me, so I was determined to go (even if I had to find a household to sell me gas before heading out to the coast). So after refuelling in little Trapiche, I left the highway behind and took on the dirt road past the nearby mountains and into the distance. - The ride out to the coast was astonishing and I was forced to take a short break to experience the complete silence and the immense landscape, even though the sun was setting over the red horizon.

After driving through the vast and empty expanse of dessert, with one or two encounters of wild donkeys I finally arrived at the small coastal town. I found the sandy streets deserted and had to look for someone to ask about accommodation and food. After consulting one of the local supermarkets, and negotiating with a camping site, I was able to settle for the night, with still an hour left of sunset. - With collected wood from the beach, I had a fire lit and some food cooked over the burning coal. The only companion on the campsite decided to make me company!

Punta de Choros is a small fishing village with just a few hundred people, but gets filled to the limit during the summer season. The hundred or so buildings and its surrounding environment allow you the time and space for both peace and reflection. On the second day, there was no discussion but to lie in the hammock on the beach when the sun was setting. Still, the main attraction is the three nearby islands, that exhibit an epic variety of flora and fauna, among them: Humboldt Penguins, sea-lions and dolphins.

The agenda for the next day was the tours of the famous Isla de Dama. The daily tours range between 10-15000 pesos, which is well worth the +3 hour tour of the three islands, both in English and Spanish. We were lucky to have calm waters, and were therefore able to go cruising on the West side of the islands with some dolphins! Also, for the first time in my life, I saw penguins!!! - It is fascinating the flora and fauna on the islands, with many interesting birds and beautiful flowers. Las Damas is the one island you get to disembark, and take a 45 min tour around the island. Very recommended!

Humboldt Penguin

Dolphins!!

Sea-lion

The magnificent atmosphere, giving a sense of end of the world place, made me want to stay for several more days. But "no rest for the wicked"... at least not for now. After two nights in La Punta Choro I´m hitting the road again!

The island Damas where you get to disembark

I definitely recommend visiting this area, especially if you are travelling on bikes or in a car. I am aware that the small and quite village renders a very different vibe in the summer season, though nothing can take a way the beautiful sunset and the amazing flora and fauna on the three nearby islands.  :)

Andacollo and Stargazing

So before leaving La Serena, I really wanted to visit an observatory to fully experience the incredible night sky of this region. I decided to go somewhere I hadn´t been yet, thus the small town Andacollo just an hour from La Serena. With no altitude indications on my map, I was yet again surprised by the gigantic climb up the mountains to finally breath out in Andacollo at 1100 m above sea level. It was a beautiful drive though!

The old mining village of Andacollo is not very big at all, but treasures the Holy Virgin of Rosario of Andacollo, currently found in Templo Chico. I was told that, as La Serena was at several occasions attacked and burned by pirates during the 1500s, the Spaniards hid the the Holy Virgin to protect her. By time this secrete passed out of knowledge, and by chance found again by indigenous miners. Today the town owns its name to the virgin, and puts on celebration twice a year in her name. The "big" celebration around Christmas, and the "small" the first weekend of October.  

 - And as always with celebrations in Chile, the police will not miss the opportunity to devotedly patrol.

Accommodation. Littile did I know that this particular weekend was the gathering for the "small" celebration, so I was lucky to find some accommodation for the night. I have now come to accept that there are no more hostels in this region, but "hostales", more like private rooms for 2-4 people which generally cost more. I was able to negotiate a fair price for my stay at hostal Kullu Kuri for $10,000 / night. 

 http://www.hospedajesandacollo.cl/cms/index.php/hospedajes/hostal-kullu-kuri.

1

I had to find my way up to the observatory on my own, but turned out to be alright with thanks to the very helpful town folk, despite the dark night. I eventually arrived at the top of the 200-300 m tall "hill", and for a mere 3500 pesos enjoyed a splendid tour. We were told that there is a respective summer and winter "night sky", and since we were currently in the spring, none of the "skies" showed perfectly clear. Nonetheless, the incredible night sky left me the biggest impression! 

For more info and booking:  http://www.ingservtur.cl/collowara%20Observatory.html#

Andacolla and the Collowara observatory is a good day-trip from La Serena, including a sight-seeing of the town and stargazing at night. It is definitely not necessary to stay the night if you go by car or through a tourist agency.









On my way down the next day, I say people walking on the road, up this "gigantic climb". I thought, surely the buss has broken down or something... After seeing more and more people walking up along the road, I come to realize how important this religious festival must be. jajaja, But I was on the way to my own spiritual retreat, La Punta Choros!

1) Picture from www.ingservtur.cl

La Serena - Coquimbo

Coquimbo is a small fisherman town with an important shipping port in the area. I have been Couch Surfing here for the last few days, enjoying the proximity to some impressive landscapes and small, hidden villages in the mountains. Everything just a day-trip away! But even though most of the attractions lie either outside the city or in the neighbouring town La Serena, there are still a few things you should definitely check out in Coquimbo.



Coquimbo is small and easy to get around in, even in a vehicle as road signs show you the way to most of the tourist attractions.There is a notable difference in tempo here compared to Santiago. I noticed this especially as I struggled with the slow paced pedestrians on the sidewalk downtown. I was finally able to register my motorcycle at this point as El Registro Civil had finally opened after their tree week on strike, and thus cruised around town to get all the paper work done! Everyone is very friendly and helpful.

Fishermen walking in the shallow water with their nets

At seven in the morning you will see the fishermen return with their catch and later sell it in the Coquimbo Fish Market. Since I was not able to make it down in time for the actual market, just in time for a delicious plate of fish and rice, I found another blog describing their "heaven on earth" experience indulging in the rich variety and taste that you will find. (with great photos!)

Funny! - When I took this shot, I heard this noise I really could place. As I walked a little closer for another shot, I noticed what was the source of this noise, Sea Lions indulging their part of the fishermen´s catch!

http://struanandannainchile.blogspot.com/2010/12/la-serena-beach-coquimbo-fish-market.html

Immediately as you enter Coquimbo from the south, you will notice a big cross on a hill across the bay. The Third Millenium Cross Monument, a gigantic cement cross from which you can oversee the whole town and its surrounding. The structure is impressive, especially close up. For $2000 you can take an elevator all the way up to the "arms" for a spectacular view. It also includes access to the second level where you find more biblical sculptures.  

Here are some more information if you are interested. 

http://www.welcomechile.com/coquimbo/third-millenium-cross-monument.html

The view from the top!

On the way over to La Serena, I took the route along the beach on my motorbike which my Couch Surfing host had recommended me. It clearly showcases La Serena as a very popular summer resort with innumerable residence buildings, pubs, bars, beach-soccer goals, and an seemingly endless beach. I can only imagine what a stellar beach town it is in the summer, with all the people in search for summer heat, beaches, and parties.

View of Coquimbo

Ready to throw the part when the season comes around!

Km after km of residence buildings

So even if you are staying in La Serena enjoying the beautiful beaches and parties, Coquimbo is not far away, and is definitely worth the visit!