The Salt Lakes - San Pedro The Atacama

Enough with the bicycle, and back on the motorbike! (and on this trip to the salt lakes I think it was a good idea!) The first lakes are only five km away from San Pedro, but the other lakes lie farther away and are definitely worth the visit. As the desert sun can be a little overwhelming during midday, early morning or the afternoon are recommended hours to set out on this exploration, especially with regular bicycles. 

The dogs accomanied a couple riding bicycles from town

The salt lakes are situated more toward the middle of the huge salt flats, and render a grand panoramic view of the vast barren landscape with the impressive mountain ranges at the line of the horizon. The salt has been accumulated from the time when the area was at the bottom of an ocean with a particularly high concentration of salt. The lakes now form part of a very unique ecosystem that you  find at these high altitudes (>2,400 meters above sea level), with a certain type of flora and fauna that thrives in this salty climate. 

I really enjoy taking some trips with just my bike and no luggage to fully enjoy the terrain and the landscape. - My first stop was the three first lakes, ... or ponds. I was really struck by the strong and bright colors of the grass, the water, and the sky. After some shots of the lakes and its surrounding, it was time to try the high salt level! - And sure enough, there was definitely no need for a floating device as you could lift your limbs out of the water! Incredible! The cool water also offered a needed break from the intense sun. 

I met a couple that had rented bicycles from town, and felt a bit sorry for them as I left them behind heading to the next stop. The cool breeze from riding the bike was for sure something that they could not enjoy. After a good cruise through the white barren desert, I found myself between two round basins, in the middle of nowhere. The two "Eyes" appear as though they would be unnatural, or does not seem to fit as they are about the same size, right next to each other, with no similar phenomena in sight. - It is an amazing sight! 

The two Eyes

The last stop on my day trip, and maybe the most awe-striking, was a lake with solid salt "rocks" on the surface, and a magnificent view of the mountains in the background. After having spent quite some time in the sun, I sat myself in the shade of the bike (which immediately gave a refreshing and needed break from it), to just enjoy the breathtaking view. After awhile, some snacks, and good number of photos shot, I decided to head back to San Pedro. 

When I past the eyes I encountered the couple again, who decided to turn back at this point too, but with a good stretch in front of them before arriving to San Pedro again. If I had a rope or something, I´d give them a ride part of the way for sure!

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Advice from a truckdriver - Useful equipment to carry with you

On the road from Santiago to La Serena, after my embarrassing accident (my bike fell over when I was parking) a truck-driver stopped to help me out with minor repairs. With his +30 years of experience, he shared a few insights I had put in the back of my mind.

Always carry tools to repair a flat tire:

On my bike, it works very similar as to a normal bicycle. Therefore, I carry, two metal "rods" to displace the tire, patches to cover the hole of the tube, and glue to make it stick. Also, as a regular bicycle hand-pump wont do, I bought a "can" that will temporary that will inflate the tire sufficiently to get to the closest gas station. 

Moreover,

Plastic cable ties, whether it´d be a screw and bolt gone missing, or to to secure a piece of equipment, ...like duck-tape, it always comes in handy!

Lubricant Oil for the chain, I´ve been recommended to use it every 200-500 km for good maintenance of the chain. In a normal store, a guy gave me a W40 to use for cleaning and free up rustic pieces, but it does not work for lubricating the chain (Hence, go to a garage or dealer with your questions if you are unsure).

Use a rope to secure your luggage

I mainly used the common stretchable ropes with hooks at the ends to tie down my things on the bike. I was taught that they will eventually start to lose tension, hence allowing your luggage to shift when you drive, and in worst case scenario make you fall over at high speed. The wise truck-driver recommended me to mainly use a normal rope to secure your bags, and use the stretchable ropes and nets to compliment afterwards.

If you are unfamiliar to securing with ropes, there are several youtube videos showcasing the basics!  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9YVoZMndbc

• Always secure your luggage with more than one piece / kind of rope, in case the first fails.
• Keep in mind to pack your things as low as possible to avoid a high point of equilibrium. (See the impeccable example above) :)

The Geysers - San Pedro de Atacama

The Geysers is a spectacular phenomena which you can only behold in the early morning high up in the mountains. It is an all together amazing experience, being up before sunrise, in a beautiful basin high up in the mountains, watching the geysers pour out the ground, and with a refreshing morning temperature of -9C (not kidding!) The tour is well worth the money, and we locked out with a great guide!

Our hostess had already prepared hot water with Coca-leaves for the high altitude when we awoke some minutes before 4 AM. A little drowsy still, we huddled up the best we could in the bus to enjoy the hour and a half of sleep as we climbed to an altitude of ~4500 m (San Pedro is at ~2200m). When the sun started to illuminate the basin we were finally arriving at El Tatio. We could already see the geysers in the distance, with a height up to 10 m and a temperature around 85C (just perfect for a Uruguayan "Mate", as someone pointed out!)

Pictures say more than a thousand words...

And then, the sun finally rose above the crest, and the temperature instantly started rise from negative to a comfortable positive in a few minutes. Just in time for some hot coffee and a sandwich that the tour had prepared for us. - A truly unforgettable breakfast!! 

When the geysers started to diminish and we were all fed and a bit warmer, we headed over to a natural hot spring for those who wanted to take a morning swim. - Naturally, there was no doubt that this had to be done!  

(Photo evidence will be uploaded asap!)

My beautiful companions, Carola & Luisa

I was awestruck by the amazing flora and fauna we witnessed on the way back. Such bright and clear colors of blue and yellow. The Vicuñas roaming freely in this remote landscape high up in the mountains, a fox stopped by the side of the road, and we saw some flamingos settled in a pound beside the road. In the distance we could see the vast salt flats, and on the horizon the numerous volcanoes in the area.   

Flamingos! 

Also, the land was navigated by the Inkas during their era. The volcanoes were visited for spiritual rituals, and road marks were left behind to find the way. 

Although we found the Inkan way-mark, we were not in agreement about the way onward

Still we made it back at the hostel at around noon for a well deserved siesta! Sometimes it actually pays off rising up early in the morning! ...

The Moon Valley - San Pedro The Atacama

I´d never get myself into one of these!

The Moon Valley is as impressive geologically as it is stunningly beautiful. I rented a bike from the hostel (thought it would be good idea with some exercise) to check out the Moon on Earth. Although the park isn´t far away from San Pedro, nor that big, I spent a good six hours marvelling at the out-of-this-world rock formations, landscapes and natural history that is preserved in this unique place. It is strongly recommended to visit the park in the early morning or the afternoon (and stay for the sun set), because the sun is very strong.


Since my German room-mates were leaving for Uyuni in the early hours, I was ready to set off on my day´s adventure in the early morning. I carried with me a backpack with my 2 liter Camel-bag and food for the day ,and enthusiastically biked through the vast desert, saluting the road-construction workers along the way. After 20 min I reached the entrance / ticket office, where I enjoyed a very interesting and informative exhibition of the geological history of the area (in Spanish), and some shade from the ever present sun (for us Swedes, we don´t do well with desert heat / sun). (There was a group with a guide who was explaining everything in English!)

Strategic photo-seshion break

On the way up the first really steep hill, I noticed my fitness was way off the charts. I thought to myself, "Even if I haven´t been exercising actively for some time, this is ridiculous!" But before taking my photo sesh break, I guide passing my on her bike explained, "It is the high altitude!" as she continued onward ...

The name of the park was obviously adopted due to the resemblance of the moon´s surface, and sure enough, many of the things you see don´t seem to belong, but to another planet. 

The Moon

The Amphi Theatre: This formation was the result of thin layers of materials (sand, salt and clay) that were destroyed due to movements in earth´s crust. This formation normally occurs when a separation at lower levels makes the surface level drop in this manner. It is a spectacular sight!

The Amphi Theatre

A salty landscape

No, its not snow! ...its the moon!

The Three Maries: Only two remaining (someone "accidentally" pushed the third over) represent a formation of intense erosion processes that have shaped the rock into what it is today. These ladies have been around for an impressive one million years.

Me and the Maries

"Onix, I choose you!"

..and the Great Sand Dune

The Great Sand Dune! The sand has accumulated for over thousands of years on top of what was once a natural barrier and now stands as the base for the dune. This is normally the end of the park, but you can also visit the salt mines..

.. which I naturally decided to do! Although there was no cave, I found the setting very fascinating, with a great view point of the grand white landscape! It sort of reminded me of an apocalyptic waste land, with little life and lot of... "waste land".

The entrance to the mine

a salty pond in the mine

An apocalyptic waste land (aka. The Salt Flats)

I noticed on my way back that more people were arriving in the afternoon. I had not been informed that the park offers an excellent spot for watching the sunset. Do keep in mind that you cannot enter the park after 6pm, so you need to get there earlier to enjoy the actual sunset much later. These are some shots from the way back:

I recommend to visit the park in the morning or in the afternoon, as the sun is very strong during midday. Also, do bring plenty of water and sun-block! If you are interested in the geological explanations of the formation of the sights, I´d recommend taking a tour, private guide, or a friend that can translate the information available in the exhibit!

- Enjoy!!

San Pedro de Atacama

San Pedro, located in one of the few oasis in the Atacama desert, is a can´t-miss-stop if you are travelling through the northern parts of Chile. The village lies in the centre of the many "out-of-this-world" landscapes, natural wonders, and rock formations. The many down-to-earth "extrameños" (foreigners, even though from Chile) mixed in with the native population, contribute to a deep-rooted tourism with a strong emphasis to preserve the unique charm of San Pedro. The many hostels offer tours and information of all the sights you would want to see. - I must admit it I had gladly stayed for longer! 

The Finish owner of the local alehouse,
with an impressive 17 years in San Pebro!

On my first day in San Pedro, I walked around the village talking to some of the local business owners. Although there is a tension between the indigenous community and foreign business initiatives, I think so far, the latter has only contributed positively with its unique products and services to the small oasis. Like the French bread-maker, the Finish alehouse owner, and the Bolivian artisan handcrafts. I past by a local drinking his Argentinian "mate" in the street corner. All in all, despite the heavy touristy summer season, it provides a unique retreat from city stress and commotion, and a centre for exploring the magnificent landscapes surrounding the oasis.

The main street is filled with the various agencies that takes you about everywhere, even up to the Salt Flats of Uyuni in Bolivia. There are several bars to enjoy the Chilean artisenal beers and some food. Interestingly, there are no dance clubs nor places opened after 12-1 am due to tension with the indigenous population. (And with respect, I can only imagine what this marvellous oasis would turn into with hostels and parties raging until the sun rise.) Still, I very much enjoy the calm town atmosphere, especially after a day touring the valleys and surrounding mountains!

Some of the big attractions are:
Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley)
http://motorbiketoursa.blogspot.com/2013/10/the-moon-valley-la-valle-de-la-luna.html
Valle de la Muerte (Death Valley)
The Geysers
http://motorbiketoursa.blogspot.se/2013/10/the-geysers.html
The Salt Lakes.

 I will cover these with some pictures and info! - Coming soon!

A ´Mining tour´ in the Chilean mountains

So, on my map, the beautiful road towards La Punta Choro were identical to the road leading through the interior up to Huasco, where I wanted to finish the day. "Great!" I thought to myself (seriously misinformed!) as I wanted to enjoy more of this stunning landscape. - For my birthday (coming up soon) I wish for a map with elevation indicated, especially since I don´t think Peru nor Bolivia will be much easier! :)

And the truth is, I fully enjoyed the morning, perhaps the best route I have taken this far on my trip. The dirt road going through a wide empty landscape with no one but me, and a few wild goats and donkeys! Moreover, without the otherwise common wind, I fully enjoyed the 25HP and comfortable dirt road leading on towards the horizon! I thought to myself: "Man! This is what I have been dreaming about! Whoo hoo!" Accelerating a bit more* :)

Wild donkeys

Goats on the run!

When I arrived to El Morado, I kindly asked for directions of an old gentleman. With his think Chilean accent he (strongly) advised me head back to the highway, but likewise indicated my desired route up north. When I came to the cross road between these two, I noticed an acute drop in quality, but thought to myself; "eh, can´t be that bad! And how boring isn´t the highway!" This is where you should heed the advice of the old man: Head straight toward Ruta 5!

(Mom and dad, the following text is highly exaggerated for story-telling purpose!*) 

It turns out to be a pure mining road with nothing but big trucks and huuge mountains for the better part of the day. Truthfully, I have not seen anything more epic, nor driven anything more extreme in my life. As I was continuously hoping for better road conditions, I had always passed the "let´s go back" point and thus continued on forward. Into the deep valleys of the colossal mountains, through narrow passage ways, up the steep mountain sides on extremely snaky and at times sandy (big No No for motorbikes) roads, and down the other side. At the crest you could see the continuation of the road on the neighbouring mountain tops, swindling up and down the mountain sides. Epic, but a morale killer! :)

Looked liked abandoned machinery

You can make out the road rolling over the landscape

Snaky roads eh!

With at times little hope of ever escaping this endless landscape of mountains, and a killing desert-like heat, hope was rejuvenated with help from friendly truck drivers, always surprised to see a motor biker this far off-road! ... :) Finally, I started to see road signs again, and thought to myself, "Now we can´t be too far away from civilization!". jajaja,... Sure, after another master decent, and an hour through a hilly landscape, I finally arrived at highway 5 again! 

I don´t recommend this route to anyone, who is not up for an extreme adventure ofc!

It was very scenic, and for sure something I will never forget! Now onward on roads actually recommended to me, towards San Pedro de Atacama!  - Over n out

La Punta de Choros

Punta de Choros was something most people had recommended to me, so I was determined to go (even if I had to find a household to sell me gas before heading out to the coast). So after refuelling in little Trapiche, I left the highway behind and took on the dirt road past the nearby mountains and into the distance. - The ride out to the coast was astonishing and I was forced to take a short break to experience the complete silence and the immense landscape, even though the sun was setting over the red horizon.

After driving through the vast and empty expanse of dessert, with one or two encounters of wild donkeys I finally arrived at the small coastal town. I found the sandy streets deserted and had to look for someone to ask about accommodation and food. After consulting one of the local supermarkets, and negotiating with a camping site, I was able to settle for the night, with still an hour left of sunset. - With collected wood from the beach, I had a fire lit and some food cooked over the burning coal. The only companion on the campsite decided to make me company!

Punta de Choros is a small fishing village with just a few hundred people, but gets filled to the limit during the summer season. The hundred or so buildings and its surrounding environment allow you the time and space for both peace and reflection. On the second day, there was no discussion but to lie in the hammock on the beach when the sun was setting. Still, the main attraction is the three nearby islands, that exhibit an epic variety of flora and fauna, among them: Humboldt Penguins, sea-lions and dolphins.

The agenda for the next day was the tours of the famous Isla de Dama. The daily tours range between 10-15000 pesos, which is well worth the +3 hour tour of the three islands, both in English and Spanish. We were lucky to have calm waters, and were therefore able to go cruising on the West side of the islands with some dolphins! Also, for the first time in my life, I saw penguins!!! - It is fascinating the flora and fauna on the islands, with many interesting birds and beautiful flowers. Las Damas is the one island you get to disembark, and take a 45 min tour around the island. Very recommended!

Humboldt Penguin

Dolphins!!

Sea-lion

The magnificent atmosphere, giving a sense of end of the world place, made me want to stay for several more days. But "no rest for the wicked"... at least not for now. After two nights in La Punta Choro I´m hitting the road again!

The island Damas where you get to disembark

I definitely recommend visiting this area, especially if you are travelling on bikes or in a car. I am aware that the small and quite village renders a very different vibe in the summer season, though nothing can take a way the beautiful sunset and the amazing flora and fauna on the three nearby islands.  :)