Fr Uyuni to the Bolivian border (Villazón)

This might have been one of the most epic days of the trip so far. Expecting similar terrain as the (terrible) very challenging road leading in to Uyuni, I was (for most of the day) pleasantly relieved! But most of all, astounded by the vast and breathtaking landscapes that passed by, and at which rate it suddenly changed altogether. What I had previously seen from my trip through northern Chile, I saw in Bolivia in one day!

A good road with a beautiful view is a good start on the day!

I must admit, that although my food experience may have been somewhat complicated, cruising through the Bolivian country side was but a pure indulgence!

And later, ... more sand

 And more obstacles...

...stuck in the sand

But, I have come to learn that you can never expect that the road will remain in the same condition, but be prepared for anything. At one point I thought I´d be stuck in the middle of nowhere with a broken gearbox as I was momentarily stuck in the sand. But with some faith and desperation I overcame the various obstacles on the way. 

There is really only one road that leads to Villazón, and my Korean friends that I happened to run into in Salta, could quite not believe that I had travelled this way on the motorbike. Sometimes I had a hard time to believe this was the actual road myself as I continued the road up into the mountains.

What was left of a mining settlement

Colorful mountain sides

Red red mountains

...and later ...

some winding roads

This road lead up to the actual ridge
with an amazing view of both sides

...and again a sudden change of landscape

And the rolling hills....

..and finally heading down from the mountains along a long ridge

And then awarded with asphalt for the last 100 km toward the border! And some epic New scenery.

The road really blew my mind, and I wish I would have had more time to let it all sink in and take some better pictures! But it is something I will keep in mind for next time, and a route I highly recommend, ...maybe not alone! :P

The Salt Flats of Uyuni - Bolivia

Where salt is dried in piles

Uyuni, a little but well known town just on the edge of the massive salt flats of Bolivia. I found a hostel for 35 pesos (single room) just before the rain set in and could store the bike inside. Although everything is expensive in Uyuni, I treated myself with a pizza and a glass of red after the long day on the road!  

Our Jeep & Crew

The next morning the plan was to wake up early to decide whether I could visit the salt flats on my motorbike, or if a tour would serve me better. It turned out that it is very easy to get lost due to serious lack of road signs or... anything to orientate by, so I decided to go with a tour instead. Luckily, I was able to join the very last jeep leaving Uyuni for a just day in the worlds largest salt flat! I would also recommend the three day tour, especially if you´d want to continue on toward San Pedro de Atacma / Chile (which is also highly recommended!).  

The Volcano through the windshield

It is hard to grasp the sheer size of the salt flats, and it takes about an hour to arrive at the first island, a little cactus filled island that stands out alone within at least a 90km radius. Even if you could see something on the horizon, the vision is was so distorted that you could't even make out what it was! Before we entered the salt flats, we made a stop at a market / museum where you could buy souvenirs and learn more about how the indigenous population still use the salt flats. 

The train graveyard is usually part of the regular tours, though I noticed that we were bound for the volcano instead, situated sort of on the Northwest side of the salt flats. At first, you notice nothing but something rising up from the horizon, but as we continue to cruise through the white flat patterned with the typical salt hexagons, the majestic sight turns out something like this (see pic below).

The Volcano, "thin ice" just beyond the left car, and farther still some stones buildings the farmers still live in

The driver left us a 200m short, to allow us to take some pictures before gathering up for some lunch. As I was chatting away with another group and lost track of time, I decided to take a "short-cut" directly toward the small houses where my group was preparing lunch. Almost like ice, the salt-layer broke underneath my feet and left me almost knee-deep in foul-smelling mud.

I was almost surprised that I seemed to be the only one who had thought of this "ingenious" idea...

 Lunch was good, and did not leave me hungry. I decided to make a quick visit to see the llamas right next to us (bear footed).  

We made our last stop at the Cactus Island, where you can disembark for a $US 5 fee and hike the 80 m high summit for a spectacular view of the flats! Also, for ~$US 20 you can do a cruise with a glide around the island, which looked very tempting but could not fit into my cheep-skate-budget. Instead, I paired up with a group from South Korea, who well prepared had brought props to use for the must-do photo sesh!

The Korean Crew

The last stop we made just before exiting the salt flats was at the Salt Hotels currently under construction. The building will be constructed entirely out of salt, kind of like the Ice Hotel in Sweden! The bricks you see in the picture are formed just by salt. Maybe when come through here in a few years time, you will be able to stay here!

C.N.F. represent! (Uruguayan soccer team!)

Salt Hotel

 On the way back, I again faced the dark and malicious clouds of thunder and rain, however comfortably and protected in a modern jeep. Also, there was constantly a good number dust devils roaming in the open lands of Bolivia.

If you want to get an idea of what the salt flats have to offer, do some youtube-searching! And also remember that the raining season starts in December, and during Januari to March could pose complications to enter the flats. But the water offers an amazing opportunity for some stellar shots with the reflection of the water, and some people do not come to visit until there is a layer of water. - In any case, Enjoy!! 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aFQ2hborMa0

On the road again / La Paz to Uyuni

3/12 So after a good while off he bike, I have now begun my journey back to Santiago through northern Argentina. After I left La Paz, I headed directly to Oruro, which wasn't too much for the first day back on the bike again.

From Oruro, I was told it would take me about 5 hours to Uyuni, where I wanted to visit the Salt Flats, and see if one could get access to the Dakar track. 

I really enjoyed the first part of the route with a wide open country side of clear green and yellow fields and mountains at the horizon! I also saw scattered small mud huts, and people hearing their sheep, llamas, and cows along the way. I just sat back in the seat to totally take in the beautiful sights as I comfortably cruised by on the perfectly paved road. At times I thought about how it happens that the mountains in the distance seem to be hovering in mid air, but did not come to a scientific explanation.

I stopped on the way to eat some corn and cheese that a nice lady was selling along the road. When i explained my goal for the day, she thought i was not going to be able to make it to Uyuni that same day, which got me a little stressed. But just after I saw the 200km Uyuni sign, I thought to myself, "great! I'll be home in 2-3 hours!!" ...but just then did the road turn, and turned into a really bad dirt road.

 I had to slow down to about 25 to manage the poor condition of the road. I thought to myself"this can't seriously go on for more than a few km." but I came to realize that it was good for another 150 I'm before arrivin to Uyuni. "Alright, 150 km, not too bad ... 30 km/hr ~ 5 HOURS!!!" And 5 hr later, chased by a lightning storm, I arrive to the dessert city of Uyuni and found myself accommodation min before the rain begun.

+8 hrs driving, the real poor road conditions, and the desert sun, I feel like I just completed a Dakar race!!

A Swedish Coffee Shop in La Paz - Café del Mundo

I can't count my time here in La Paz /Bolivia as the highlight of the trip so far, and this is not to be misunderstood as criticism toward the city, the Bolivians, nor the vibrant culture. - I guess I drew the short straw, had extremely bad luck wih the food, or just experiencing the short-comings of my very delicate Swedish stomach. 

With a Swedish gingercookie house - Impressive!!

So, now recovering from yet another round of 'travellers diarrhea' and stomach pain, I have found a bright light in the darkness around. If not for the Swedish flag, I would never have discovered the Swedish "Fika" Coffee shop!! 

The atmosphere is very cozy, with the walls decorated with photos from all around the world. Elin the owner, drops in every now and then and make you feel right at home, when being very far from home. The menu includes everything from Scandinavian / American breakfast options to homemade salads and juicy hamburgers, and of course very good coffee!  

 Yeah!! So now I will update you all on the latest happenings, Peru!

The Swedish Crew - There ARE Swedish people in South America!!