The motorbike family

I have repeatedly been shown true curiosity and out most helpfulness from other motor-bikers on the road. It has been especially "helpful" since I yet have much to learn about the motorbike and the road. When I was standing zoned-out in the harbour of Puerto Montt, a fellow motorbiker came out and curiously asked me about this and that. At the end of the conversation, he took me to the local dealers to look for tires, and had also offered me accommodation. 

On the way up volcano Osorno

The next day he had his day off work, so he invited me to come along for a ride around the area, including volcano Osorno and the famous lake Todos Los Santos. 

As far as one gets with vehicles

Stunning view of the lake Llanquihue

And after we passed by the lake Todos Los Santos, where I originally wanted to cross the border from Bariloche / Argentina to Chile. But since the time Che Guevara passed by here some 50 years back, they don´t take motor vehicles across the lake no more. : /

Todos Los Santos

"Muchas gracias por la hospitalidad y muy buena onda! La pasé bkn! Les deseo un buen viaje y q nos veamos en el camino hacía Ushuaia!!" - Rasmus

Last day in Bariloche

On my last day in Bariloche, I met up with my friend from University Jack. We ate lunch, drank some coffee, enjoyed the day like one should. Yet, there was one thing left on my check list. I invited him to come along, and we went an hour before the sun was about to set.

A friend who had lived some time here in Bariloche sent me a list of things to do, and to watch the sunset from Mt. Campanario was one of the items. Jack and I took the bike to the base not even 20km from town, and arrived at the view point some 30 min later. 

Jack! It was a pleasure to see you again after all this time! And we had a great photo sesh too! Till next time, buen viaje y q disfrute a BsAs!!

Enjoying the sunset at Mt. Campanario

How to cook canned tuna

My friend Andy from New Zealand told me how you can cook canned tuna with just two sheets of toilet paper. Hmm...

Enjoy!

El Cerro Catedral - Frey

The hike up to the lodge Frey is another hike I have been recommended and is very accessible even without vehicle. After a night out in Bariloche, I decided to walk it off up El Catedral, a fairly light hike with a slightly more challenging finish. Then, there are those that do this hike with loaded 80 L backpacks, for the outstanding rock climbing at the top!  

The trail alongside of the mountain

View of Bariloche and lake Gutiérrez

The hike takes about four, starts off with a pleasant walk along the side of the mountain before entering a forest, and finally leave you between two peaks as you take on the last (steep) stretch to the lodge.

... and into the trees

As you exit the tress between two mountains

And finally Frey...

Frey

Infinite number of climbing routes...and a lake!

a climber

On the way back to Bariloche

Good luck with your exchange in Argentina!

It was a pleasure to get to spend some time with you all! I hope you will have a great time in Argentina and that you speak fluent Castellano before you go back!!

Fue un placer, nos vemos por ahí!
Saludos!

El Tronador

El Tronador is a hike that I think stands out from the rest around Bariloche, and I must admit it was one of the most rewarding hikes I have done.

View from the road

It says that the hikes take four hours, which made me a little arrogant. I paid for that! I set a high pace initially as there the route started off with little inclination. I was very thrilled and very excited to get up to the glacier!

"It´s up there!!!"

I met a group of exchange students on the way and we hiked on together.

When we got out of the forest below and could actually see the landscape around us, we had a legitimate reason to take a break (catch our breath) and just awe at the majestic panoramic view. At times we could hear what sounded just like thunder, (El Tronador in English means The Thunderer). The sound is produced by the glacier.   

Payton pondering the deep valleys and innumerable mountains

I was far more tired then the pic shows

Follow the White dot! Almost there!

The cabin was neat with a cozy atmosphere and service the essential needs. Three meals per day are served by professional cooks. Beer and vine are also purchasable for those who do not bring their own! The prices are not cheap, but considering that they need to transport all the supplies by horse and man power, ..it is alright. I cooked up some delicious pasta with tomato sauce, a classic! 

The view is one of the most spectacular I have seen, and I found myself more than a few times, zoned out by the immense infinity. More and more people arrived during the late afternoon, and we filled up the small attic on mattresses that the lodge provided. Still, I was told, the lodge has accommodated about twice as many, so never worry there is not enough space!

The glacier

The sun setting over the numerous mountain peaks

El Catedral, the peaks right next to the lodge Frey

We were told that the sunrise was pretty impressive. So in the early morning, a few brave souls crawled out of their comfortable sleeping bags to confront the chilly morning and the cold winds and get a glimpse of the sun rising beyond the peaks.

Sometimes you lie and wonder if it´s really worth going that extra step for something unknown...

El Tronador

Limited time, time to decide what to do!

Time to sit down and look at the endless possible hikes available, and decide what to do for the next few days!! A good coffee is always a treat, even if "good coffees" are rare in South America. I find most of them taste burnt. Oh well, this time I was not disappointed! - Now back to work!

List to do:
El Tronador
Refugio Frey
Mt. Companario 

A lake in the mountains

A lesson I have learnt on the road is that, when "bad" things happen or just don´t work out as planned  (...and when do they ever!!?) we immediately get frustrated and miss out on the opportunities that arise. I woke up one morning, set to run some errands, eat breakfast and be on my way to another park early to climb El Tronador.

But, things did not go as planned and I arrived just 20 min late to the park entrance (with traffic in just one direction during most of the day). I was not permitted to enter. Well, I decided to visit another area of the park instead and set off.

After seeing the powerful waterfall, someone had mentioned that there was a beautiful camping spot up an 4x4 road. I took off the main road, glanced at the "extremely hard conditions" as I passed by. It is definitely not a road for a normal car, but after 20-30 min I finally arrived to a glade with a little hut.

When I turned off the engine, I was surrounded by complete silence and peace! "Wow, what is this place!" After talking to he fisherman residing by the lake, I set up camp next to this incredible lake, completely surrounded by green mountains. In the distance there was no doubt that it was El Tronador that rose with its mighty glacier and snow covered peaks above the other mountains. 

The view from my tent

The fisherman took me for a ride to see the

When sometimes "bad" things happen to you, it may be a detour to something better than you had originally planned.  

The Seven Lakes

Waterfall by the road

The seven lakes is a picturesque route that takes you by seven beautiful lakes just north of Bariloche. It showcases impressive landscapes of mountains, lakes and vast open landscapes. It is without a doubt a must if you are travelling by any means on wheels, and will leave you with a good idea of what Bariloche is all about (although street bikes can have a tough time with the gravel). 

 

Hector and I made our acquaintance by one of the lakes

I stopped overnight in Villa de Angostura, and found a hostel thanks to a passenger bus with 20 guests that had broken down on the road (high-season = bring tent!). I met an Argentinian, and we went to a festival they had that evening, with live music, grilled meat, and micro-brewed beer! It is otherwise a centre of skiing (in the winter) and hiking.

The last 80 km toward Bariloche goes along the big lake Nahule Huapi which has given this huge national park it's name.The immense and awe-striking landscapes make it a truly magical place and make you wish you only had more time to let it all sink in. 

When I arrived to Bariloche, I consulted the tourist information desk for accommodation, and found a camping close to town, with a stove, hot water and wifi!! This has been my base for the various day trips I have done.

Bariloche is a touristic but somehow genuine town, at the shores of Nahuel Huapi lake. When you leave town to hike one of the nearby hills, you are rewarded with a view that shows the true beauty of this place. There was really no "best" or most note worthy trail / hike, everything has it's unique character and beauty, but I will share some of the hikes that I did.