Tortel - A place not far away from the End of the World

Add caption

After an unforgettable time by the lake, we were off to Tortel. I took off just before my comrades, and because the bike better handles the sometimes tough dirt roads I was sure to arrive ahead of them. So I thought at least. But we all know who wins the race...the turtle! 

Because of really cold and chilly winds I was often forced to stop, do some push-ups and warm up my frozen bones, and then keep going. At one point, I also had to re-tie my luggage as it had become loose, and maybe not surprisingly a yellow van appeared from around the corner. I obediently followed the turtle the last bit to El Tortel and enjoyed the dream-like landscape around us.  

When we started to approach Tortel, we drove through landscapes with impressive mountain ranges, lots of rivers and streams, and a very humid climate. Tortel lies by the calm water of a fjord-like basin, on the side of steep and green mountain sides. It is entirely navigated on boardwalks built around the village, thus inaccessible to vehicles. The town is very quiet, and renders an unmistakable end-of-the-world atmosphere.

I have looked at this place on a map many times, and wondered what it would be like to see it  with my very own eyes. This mythical vision sort of came true as I walked along the boardwalk, passing the old tree buildings, boats in questionable condition, and wooden objects simply left to decay. Furthermore, the climate was super humid with rain always in the air.

wonder when the boat was last used!

After we were satisfied and began to discuss the various accommodation options, we realized that a lot of people in Tortel were not very enthused about tourism, hence little regard of a hospital welcome and charged quite high prices. 

At the end, we actually settled for some soup and bread, underneath a roof (with two walled corners) by the main parking area, where we eventually laid out our sleeping bags and slept quite comfortably until the morning pedestrians started to disrupt the peace.

Although I think it was worth visiting this remote and mysterious town, I think it would have been a less of an enjoyable trip to come here alone. It is truly a unique an spectacular environment, but I really appreciated the company I was with. Maybe it was just due to the melancholy weather and the emptiness...

After breakfast, we headed back up north, and I on my own towards the Argentinian Patagonia to continue en route south!

The Yellow Van & The road to Tortel

The Yellow Van

I was asking myself a few times if a trip to Tortel would be worth the while, since one is not able to cross the Andes range much farther south but has to backtrack some 100 km to the passage Roballo. But since my new found crew in the Yellow Van was going, I could not turn them down. - And Tortel is a truly (remote and..) unique place.

Wait! ...the Yellow Van Crew?? Sorry! Let´s back track! Before I even arrived to Puerto Rio Tranquilo where we all met, I was leaving Cerro Castillo after a coffee in the Bus restaurant. I enjoyed some truly remarkable landscapes I had only been looking at on maps before. I was thrilled to actually see this scenery with my own eyes, places I once thought were too remote and unreachable.

When I arrived to Rio Tranquilo, I encountered some people I had met previously. I hung out with them in that afternoon as they were trying to hitch a ride out south. It was interesting to get a little glimpse of the hitch-hikers life, (not being able to go as you wish, wherever you wish). We played a sesh of hackie-sack, and I really enjoyed a relaxing afternoon!

Now as we were huddling inside the camp owners fire-heated cabin that night, people kept joining our company and we grew to become a joyful group of travellers. As no one had any strict plans of destinations, but a general direction southbound, Will offered some 4 seats in his Yellow Van for people heading south. I myself joined the company, but on my own means of transportation.

The Yellow Van Crew & friends

Although we set out at different times, we easily found each other again in Cochrane farther south. We decided to leave the town behind us and look for a camping spot along the road. After some kms we found the perfect spot just off the road and next to this large, dream-blue lake surrounded by rolling mountains. We were stoked! Without verbal consent, we stopped, had a look around, and enjoyed the late afternoon in an irresistible climbing tree before anything else were to be done.

The Irresistible Climbing Tree

....and of course a mandatory afternoon swim in the beautiful lake

When the sun started to disappear, we quickly built up an impressive pile of wood, started a fire, and sat down to just enjoy this incredible moment in time. Out of sight, our very talented musician was setting up a concert with amp, mic and everything. Unbelievably, we were later enjoying a full-on lake concert in the middle of Patagonia, as the sun was setting across the lake beyond the rolling mountains on the horizon. 

Something I will never forget. 

The Crew

Our Guitar Hero

The festive time lasted long into the early hours of the night, when the impressive pile of wood had gone, the drowsiness finally gripped a firm hold on the joyous spirit, and my awareness of the trip to Tortel made it hard to resist the comfortable sleeping bag. Moreover, a strong wind had found our sheltered spot on the beach, and threatened to blow away anything not tied up properly.

Yes! We had evidently occupied the drinking water for our neighbours across the road, which after an initial attempt to clench their thirst despite our presence, left us alone for the duration of our stay. 

We slept till we woke up, had some individual breakfast, and I even took some time to sit down with some music to write my diary. At one point, it was time to move on, and we broke camp and hit the road. Toward Tortel!!

Cerro Castillo

I came to the conlusion that it was necessary to stay the night in Cerro Castillo and continue to the beautiful lake General Carrera, the largest in Chile the following day. But plans don´t usually turn out as planned, and I have come to realize that more often than not, it actually turns out better than planned.

Dog at our campsite, with was the home
to more dogs, cats, and chickens! :)

I arrived in the late afternoon to the small village, took refuge inside this bus from the strong and chilly winds to relax and let a warm cup of coffee warm up my cold bones. When I was again rejuvenated and the darkness started to settle, I left to set up my tent in one of the two camp sites. The following morning when I was getting ready, I was however convinced to stay and instead join a horseback tour of the area, which just from the road looks very impressive.

So, not according to plans, I was on the back of a horse instead of in the seat of my bike. I don´t necessarily have much experience with horse riding, but I am over my head with confidence and excitement. Hence not surprisingly, I immediately started to get comfortable in the saddle, and get to know my steed Sombra (Shadow in English) better. We were two of a kind in this group, a little impatient and very free spirited, so I tried hard to keep my place behind our guide Leo, whom I talked to a lot throughout the day.

Shadow and I 

After a fair time in the saddle, we all began to feel a bit sore and the need for a rest. At this point, we tied the horses to some tress at the edge of the tree limit, and hiked the last bit up to the crest on foot. The view of the valley below was the cause to much interruption of the hike, for photo shoots and admiration. 

But at last we reached the crest, and were stunned by the majestic rise of Cerro Castillo with its sharp spires, sheer size, and the glacier feeding the tall waterfalls. We rested on the side of the lake, with a warm mate being passed around, and some cookies being shared brotherly between ourselves. The magnificent view never grew old, and the more you awed at this natural wonder, the more details you observed, which enhanced the experience and feeling of spiritual contentment even more. We were all very satisfied with the day so far!

On the way back, I had been promised to be allowed to gallop some with Sombra, and so we were. It was at first a bit tricky when we were still in the woods, but when we reached an open field, we took off with the wind...completely unaware of the havoc that we caused behind us. - The horses are used to follow one another, so when one horse takes off, ... the others follow. Everyone was not as excited for more action I learned. 

Upon our return, the Germans in our group were very eager to see the soccer game between Germany and Chile, which Germany won although the game was tight. I was later invited to have dinner with the Germans, which is always a treat when you travel alone and are accustomed to cook by yourself. The next day, I returned to the bus to drink another coffee and chat with the youngsters I had got to know there before departing. - I will be back! ;)

The Crew with our guide Leo

The Patagonian roar

I finally encountered asphalt after some good 200 km of challanging dirt road, but it was not quite what I had expected! I have heard people talk about the winds in Patagonia, yet now I see what it's really about. 

The road conditions have been very good, with 50/50 asphalt and dirt roads down to Chalten where I am now. Most of the dirt road is under construction though, so shortly it will be a pleasant cruise, if the Patagonian winds will allow it. Truthfully, it has been a constant struggle to stay on the road with heavy winds coming from the west, despite the good roads.

Most of the roads are straight and goes as far as the horizon, so you kind of get stuck in one awkward position to maintain equilibrium! But at one point the road turned east and could enjoy some epic tail winds that propelled the bike up to some 140km/hr, (compared to the 125 i can otherwise achieve). It was curious as well with almost no wind resistance. 

I have also learnt that I cannot leave the bike standing alone at any point along the road, ...the lesson cost me my side mirror as I was taking a necessary pi-breakjust just a meter from the bike. :/ Another time I took out my map to have a closer look at my whereabouts, and before I knew it, it was caught in the wind and blown away in just a few sec! And, one time I stopped in neutral beside the road to take a pic, and found the bike moving backwards due to the strong headwinds! 

It has been an interesting adventure so far here on the Argentinian side. Despite the immediate challenges, I have ver much enjoyed the vast landscapes with just few bright yellow and green grass covered hills, some animals roaming freely, and the blue mountains on the horizon! 

...so where were we

It has been long since my last entry and much has happened. I am unfortunately unable to make use of my computer at this stage, thus cannot share the thrilling pictures from my camera (due ASAP). But I will share a few I have on my cell.

From futaleufú, I returned to La Carretera Austral, the main road that runs through the Chilean Patagonia. The road conditions varied from extremely bad with lots of gravel bumps In between the road constructions, to bits and pieces of asphalt. In a few years he majority will most likely be asphalted.

The next stop I made was in Cerro Castillo, a little village of a few unfree people, with a very scenic panoramic view. I could not turn down horseback riding in this picturesque landscape! So, for a day, my bike was interchanged for a horse named Sombra, in English Shadow. 

In the small town Puerto Rio Tranquilo, on the shore of the beautiful lake Carreras General, I met some people traveling in a yellow van. We were all southbound, hence met up on and camped on our way to Tortel, as far as we could go before a definite end for vehicles at O'Higgins.

After a breathtaking trip down to Tortel, we were set on different routes and I set out east to the Argentinian Patagonia to continue my south. It was never really cold, but I fought with an almost freezing windchill in Chile. In Argentina, I was about to confront the Patagonian roar!

The last stretch toward Ushuaia: The end of the world

It has been some truly amazin days on the Chilean side of La Patagonia. I ventured as far south as Tortel, and encountered incredible sceneries throughout La Carretera Austral. Now this has come to a close and another chapter begun; the last stretch toward Ushuaia.

I hope to arrive at my final destination in no more than 10 days! 

It is a good thing to have the papers in order

...and with you (at all times!)

Futaleufú - "Landscape painted by the Gods"

Futaleufú is a town, and an area of Patagonia which you should definitely include in your itinerary, not only because of its stunning beauty and calm pace of life, but also to try out some world class river rafting and extreme kayaking (if you have the skills set). I set out having been told by numerous people of its incredible scenery and landscape, and very thrilled to try river rafting for the first time in my life.

The road up to Futaleufú was characterized by steep mountains, bordering on open flowering fields and green trees spread throughout the dreamlike valleys. The road sailed through and between the rolling hills and each turn gave view to a new visual treat. I was deeply impressed by the small houses on the large fields, with animals roaming freely, completely surrounded by the impressive mountains.

 


It is advertised as the Landscape painted by the Gods, and I must say I cannot argue against that!

...and incredible lakes

Do you see the boat?

I was completely at ease when I arrived at "Futa", like the locals call it. The town is small with only a few thousand people, and feels open, neat and with a dreamlike landscape around it. I saw some older folks cutting the hedges around the central square, a few cozy coffee houses nearby, and a few cars slowly making their way through the streets.

 

I was first surprised to hear multiple people speak English, but soon realized that the area is a centre for extreme kayaking and hence lore people (especially from North America) for the high season with countless streams and challenging rough waters. The route offered by the agencies in town reached a 4/5 on the scale for us tourists, and offers one of the worlds best waters for river rafting.

The area does at the moment not have a gas station as my map indicated (I had to buy from the camping owner), but has excellent wifi, even free in the main square and places with outlets to charge electronic devices!