Punta Arenas

This part of La Patagonia is very, very plain, vast, and windy. It may not be so surprising that at the time, to give the Argentinians most of Patagonia was a fair bargain to settle their greed when Chile was occupied fighting both Perú and Bolivia in the Pacific War 1879. Still, Argentina was unable to fully achieve its intention of direct access to the pacific ocean. Evidently, the Pope intervened, hence the most southern point of South America still belongs to Chile.

Enough of history. In Punta Arenas, the last Chilean "city", I wanted to look for a new bike tire (my old one with an impressive 15,000 km through pretty rough terrain). I was able to find one of the only Honda retailer after circling the city for a some time, and I was recommended a place to buy the new tire. The generous older gentleman also helped me changed the tire for a fair price, and afterwards gave me a great recommendation for accommodation.

The next day I was off to the mainland of La Tierra de Fuego, The Land of Fire, and the last stretch on my route to the end of the world!

Torres del Paine

I must admit that Torres del Paine gave me one of the strongest impressions on my trip thus far. This may have been for several reasons, but the it is unquestionable that the extraordinary landscapes have something to do with it. The park is a must, if you are passing through these descolate parts of South America, especially if you are mobile with your own vehicle. ...

I put myself in a tricky situation with very few Chilean Pesos in my pockets, which ultimately limited my stay to only one night camping in the park. Therefore, instead of doing the famous "W" which incorporates some of the most impressive landscapes in the park, I decided to do the first hike in the "W", to the actual Torres del Paine.

I located the camp ground near the mountain and cooked some pasta with a delicious tuna tomato sauce before hitting the hay. I decided to wake up early the next morning to make most of the day, ...which implied a rise before the sun rise. After the legendary battle against the heavenly-soft-and-warm-sleeping-bag was won, I hadn´t lost too much time, thus ate some oatmeal, dismantled the tent, and prepped the bike for departure. (Early rises are less enjoyable not only because of the hour, but the dew outside which makes everything wet).

Fellow Honda Tornado Rider at the parking spot

The morning was foggy, I put my hopes on that it would clear up. The hike started with a steep climb, and then moved into a valley, with a river, with some small huts built deeper into the valley. ...you get it, I was entering the valley of Imladris (Lord of the Rings ref.). I think the expected duration of the trail was 4 hours one way, so I marched on. 

Eventually I made it to the glacier lake in front the the impressive Torres del Paine... except that I couldn´t see it. But I tell you, it would have been epic!.

For those of you as disappointed as myself:

http://www.iumiratravel.com/img/turismo-paine.jpg

As some people were waiting for the winds to change and chase away the fog, I decided to save the time to explore the park on my bike instead. I must admit that was a little sad to have come this far and not have the time to do the "W", nor actually see the Torres del Paine.

Art made by creative hikers 

On the hike, I stumbled upon someone I had met in El Chaltén. He told me he had already run into 4 groups of people randomly on this hike, that he had already met in La Patagonia previously. I thought about what he said when we departed, and right then did I run into the forth random person I had met before on my trip through La Patagonia. Coincidence! hahaha

The Japanese Crew

Sometimes I am torn between just enjoying the moment riding on the bike through epic landscapes, and interrupt "the moment" to take pictures (and make the memory eternal). This day I was forced to stop and take some photos, and I really should have stayed another day to further explore the park. I made frequent stops through out the day, and then cruised on at minimum speed. 

At the end of the day, I was exhausted and almost desperately looked for a spot to camp before the sun set. I did find a spot on the side of the road, of the side of a lake, magically reflecting the light from the fullmoon above. Fortunately I was outside the park, as the fine and possible jail time for camping outside of camping areas, would have been extremely unnecessary.

The next day proved tricky, since this road was under construction, and the next day I came to realize that the traffic was directed only in one direction. I can only say that they were confused to see me drive by at the various check points, ...not to mention the surprised drivers I had to creatively dodge in the sharp turns. The destination for the day was Punta Arenas, the last "city" in Chile on my route southbound.

I was determined to keep up the pace as the cold weather and winds were starting to really freeze my bones.

A Legendary Spanish Motorbiker

At the Perito Moreno glacier, I ran into a group of motorbikers, and what is now more of a custom, I walked up to them to introduce myself and see where they were heading. It turned out, as one of the Argentinian excitedly pointed out, that the "Spanish motorbiker" was in fact a legend. The legend humbly introduced himself. - I did not ask for his autograph at the time, but when I a few weeks later saw him on TV, I thought; "maybe I should have!"

I must admit that it was a bit of an odd image to see the legendary motorbiker pass me in the back of a pick-up truck the next day on the dirt road toward Chile and Torres del Paine. But I guess as a "professional" you do have your rights and privileges.

Here is his blog:

http://unmillondepiedras.wordpress.com/
Miquel Silvestre

Calafate - Perito Moreno

Calafate was another popular destination on my route south with the famous glacier Perito Moreno on the check-list. The city is found literately in the middle of nowhere, almost like a town built around a oasis. The city does not offer much more than expensive restaurants and tourists shops, the real attraction is the glacier (by my opinion).

I looked around for cheap accommodation, and found a hostel not far from the gas station. It was cheap, but one of the "filthiest" hostels I have actually stayed in. The only people, I later noticed, in the hostel apart from the young receptionist, were his friends. I`m not too picky, and although they offered me laundry service for free, it was not worth a second night.

In the morning I set off toward the glacier. A nice ride despite the wind. As I arrived to the park, I left my bike, ordered a coffee to go in my own steel cup and found a beautiful look-out point. Beside the boardwalk, I settled to enjoyed a delicious breakfast sandwich and some hot coffee in the chilly autumn wind in front of El Perito Moreno.

Once back again, I found a "normal" hostel. I did not even had time to get all my things inside before i was invited to dine with a group of Japanese travellers that put a plate of food in front of me, and a glass of wine. The next day, I was off early to Torres del Paine, renowned for its breathtaking landscapes.

On the way to Torres del Paine in Chile