6th Day - What you find in the middle of Patagonia

03 Feb 2015
1,700 - 2,080 km
Comodoro Rivadavia

After a good night´s sleep, we just had to buy an extra tank before we headed out on the longest stretch without gas stations, and the longest day so far on the trip. We had breakfast at the hotel before we set out to find the tank, and then left the city behind!

We had already discovered that the first distance after the breakfast was always tough, especially since I always wanted to make a good amount of km before we took a break. A stupid sense of achievement which does nothing for you except exert unnecessary strain .. that in the end doesn´t even matter.  

But with a short stop on the side of the road with some snack, water and music, we were back in the game! At times when we feel really tired, we step it up with some wild dance-moves (that no one can see!)

Much later we arrived to our stop, half the long distance to Puerto Madryn. As "Garayalde" it was marked on our map, and we had planned to eat some lunch and rest for a bit. ... We were surprised when the attendant told us the gas station was all there was...

"eh...?!!"

The reality, a gas station, without restaurant, in the middle of nowhere with a 200 km radius of deserted vastness around us! As we were both tired and hungry, we were later recommended to continue some 14 km to where we could find a restaurant along the way. - Alright, not too bad!

The "restaurant", appeared more as an abandoned gas station. As we pulled up to the front door, we could feel the emptiness in the small breeze, the dust that covered everything, the shy dog that hesitantly got closer for a bit of food. After a look around, we settled with some crackers to eat and "mate" to drink, and pushed on!

Shade!!... a rare sight in these parts. - We just had to take advantage of it!

... before getting back on the road again!

Finally! We arrived to a gas station, in the middle of nowhere, ...that at least could sell us a sandwich and some coffee!! Moreover, well recognized as a motorbike "lagoon" in the vast dessert by the countless stickers on the windows and the door. Appropriately, we met some Brazilian motorbikers heading south. We shared some stories and laughs before they were off again!

There are no words to describe the coffee and sandwich break we had at this gas station! Well needed, much deserved, spiritually consumed! - Later we jumped back up on the bike with our spirits high! We were in reach of our destination! 

What can we see beyond the next curve!?? - > A city!!

Although not Puerty Madryn, we were lucky to find a 2 floor apartment for a cheap buck! So we stayed in Trelew instead, less than 100 km from our next destination. We settled in, went to buy some groceries, and for the first time in a really long time, were able to cook in a kitchen!!

 A wonderful finish to a long, exciting day! And the food was delicious! (...eventhough she is not a fan of this picture!)

Fix & Tricks on the road

There has been a few occasions requireing a little bit of home-made engineering. 

Luckily I had just what I needed to fix it. 

I bought a new windshield in Ushuaia, but only after a few days of the trip did I lose a screw to it. In the middle of nowhere with harsh winds and no spare screws, I had to fix it! 

I recommend any adventurer to always carry a few plastic straps!

I was able to strap it back on, and surprisingly it held against the wind all through Patagonia till I was able to find another screw.

Because of the high centre of gravity of the bike, especially with all the luggage, we always keep a good eye on the bike so that it doesn´t tip over. But just when we were about to leave Río Gallegos, a little tap made the bike tip over toward the wall behind it. Nothing dramatic, but it cracked the side mirror. 

Adventurers, add tape to that list of good things to carry with you!

The bag we keep over the tank has had some serious maintenance work done by Caro as well. She has strengthened both straps on the sides and resown holes that have popped up. 

Lastly, add needle and thread to the list!

5th Day - The Long Road toward Comodoro

 02 Feb 2015
1,270 - 1,700 km
Puerto San Julián

Comodoro was an important milestoneto us as it marked the half-way point through Patagonia, and meant that we only had one more day left to arrive to Puerto Madryn (and two days of rest). But it would be a long day, and we were already quite spent from the trip so far. The journey continued still through the vast emptiness with little variety of the surrounding, 

The morning started off with the usual routine; with fruit, granola and yogourt for breakfast, and then pack everything on the bike. But we were a little irritated and had difficulty to think clearly and get things done effectively. Before hitting the road, we had to pass the supermarket to buy a few things.

It was extremely hot and we felt like we were cooking on the inside of our full-body protective clothing. But we did our best to concentrate on what had to be done and choose our words carefully not get on the others nerves,. - In times like this, I just cant wait to get out on the road, away from all the stress, complications, be with the wind, the road, and the silence.


Early in the day, we were accompanied by the grand eagles of the skies. It was spectacular to see them fly above us as we ever drove toward the horizon.

We stopped at every gas station to fill up the tank and sit down and drink some well needed coffee. The coffee breaks were more or less essential to make it though the long days, at least a moral boost! We usually brought our own sandwiches and fruits with us. 

Selfies along the road!

Toward the afternoon, we started to see a bit more vegetation on the sides of the road. not to mention the Guacanies that terrefied of the motorbike, ran for their lives when we roamed past!

At one point we reached an extended slope that took us from above the extensive flats down toward the coast line, (which was a surprisingly big drop). As the motorbike struggles a little with the heat, weight and wind, not to mention the long days, we all enjoyed a relaxed decent. - We had finally reached the Atlantic coast again!

"Oh look! A tree! ... and an ocean!"

Caleta Olivia was a possible end to the day, but we were ready for the last stretch to end the day in Comodoro. That way we´d have a shorter day to arrive at Puerto Madryn the following day. - We were pushing ourselves, but we really wanted to continue!

And it was totally worth it. The sunset over the Atlantic ocean was stunning!

We arrived to Comodoro late when it was already dark. With patience, we found something to eat, and a place to sleep. It had been an exhausting day. I started with Yoga before I really could do anything else, even communicate with Caro.

We had started to feel agitated with each other, especially after such extreme days and always living in such close quarters. So after my yoga session, we sat down and had a chat to alleviate some of the tension and reflect on what we were actually doing. It brought some smiles to our faces, and we got pumped for the following day and finally get some well deserved rest!

4th day- The Patagonian Emptiness

01 Feb 2015
910 - 1,270 km
Rio Gallegos

Now we were finally setting out on the real adventure; to cross the immense expanse of Patagonia on Ruta3. Miguel had been kind to arrange accommodation for us in San Julián through the church he works for. Although the map showed a fairly straight road, there were complications awaiting us.

The morning started off with a strong headwind from the west, which honestly maked it tough to feel like you are flying across the wide expanses, especially on a small bike with two crazy people and their life´s belongings. - The reality is more like you drive at half the speed, constantly having your head thrown this and that way, always pushing the bike to stay at a decent speed.

Yet, the road was about to turn north and the rest of the day we had the wind from the side, which allowed for higher velocities. We were accompanied by a few cars, and loads of heavy trucks...until they had past us. We stopped every ~75 km to rest, move around, and marvel at the vast plains. 

The vast landscapes reached the horizon at 360 degrees, with little but small bushes on the side of the road. As the day was not too windy, we did not have to struggle too much to keep the bike going straight.

Still, with very little variety of the scenery, including the paved road that always reached the horizon, it made us both a little bit drowsy. Regularly the first stretch of the day proved challenging in this manner, and more so for Caro, who didn´t have anything to occupy her time with (and did not want to take a siesta (nap)!)

So I gave her the camera.

Caro took it as her new hobby as we rode through Patagonia. The Guanacos, llama-looking-animal, always ran away when we past by, elegantly jumping over the fence that run along the road. - At times we past fellow motorbikers, always with great enthusiasm. "We are all family"!!

Since the bike usually does some 270 km without the reserve tank, we were expecting to get to Piedrabuena without a problem, some 230 km from Rio Gallegos, but, that was barely the case. With far more left then anticipated, the main tank ran dry and I had to switch to the reserve. After some quick calculation we had done 195 km, and would just barely make it to the town.

I didnt say anything to Caro, but kept driving anticipating the engine to give in any second. With the margin on our side though, we arrived to a lagón-like canyon with a bright blue river running through it and a tiny city laid out before us. - We had arrived! With no intention to marvel at this very unexpected, amazing natural miracle, we headed for the gas station. The attendant commented that the tank was completely empty....!

The next stop was San Julián, well within reach to avoid any unnecessary out-of-gas-inconveniences.

It is quite amazing to ponder at the incredible length of the road, stretching from one horizon all the way to the other extreme.

In the afternoon, we had to stop regularly, not only to move around a little bit, but also to allow the bike to rest. It was obvious that the bike was struggling with the slopes, weight and the long days. But not much later did we lay our eyes on the tiny coastal city San Julián, we had arrived!

Surprisingly, despite its tiny size, we struggled to find where we had to go, but asking perhaps half the city´s population, we found it, could organize our stuff and prepare to drink "mate". But the first thing I did was Yoga. It was absolutely necessary to calm my mind, relax my body, and to be able to enjoy the beautiful evening. Then we took the "mate" with us as we left to explore the city and enjoy the sunset.

On the way back we bought some pizza. Although we both prefer "healthy" food, it was necessary to add a few carbs to the body, and I tell you... I have never eaten a pizza that fast besore, ever! As we had made good progress that day, we also had time to watch a movie before going to sleep.


A beautiful end to this long day on the bike. Although we were both very tired and had had our moments of temper, we were very happy to have arrived to San Julián.