San Pedro de Atacama

San Pedro, located in one of the few oasis in the Atacama desert, is a can´t-miss-stop if you are travelling through the northern parts of Chile. The village lies in the centre of the many "out-of-this-world" landscapes, natural wonders, and rock formations. The many down-to-earth "extrameños" (foreigners, even though from Chile) mixed in with the native population, contribute to a deep-rooted tourism with a strong emphasis to preserve the unique charm of San Pedro. The many hostels offer tours and information of all the sights you would want to see. - I must admit it I had gladly stayed for longer! 

The Finish owner of the local alehouse,
with an impressive 17 years in San Pebro!

On my first day in San Pedro, I walked around the village talking to some of the local business owners. Although there is a tension between the indigenous community and foreign business initiatives, I think so far, the latter has only contributed positively with its unique products and services to the small oasis. Like the French bread-maker, the Finish alehouse owner, and the Bolivian artisan handcrafts. I past by a local drinking his Argentinian "mate" in the street corner. All in all, despite the heavy touristy summer season, it provides a unique retreat from city stress and commotion, and a centre for exploring the magnificent landscapes surrounding the oasis.

The main street is filled with the various agencies that takes you about everywhere, even up to the Salt Flats of Uyuni in Bolivia. There are several bars to enjoy the Chilean artisenal beers and some food. Interestingly, there are no dance clubs nor places opened after 12-1 am due to tension with the indigenous population. (And with respect, I can only imagine what this marvellous oasis would turn into with hostels and parties raging until the sun rise.) Still, I very much enjoy the calm town atmosphere, especially after a day touring the valleys and surrounding mountains!

Some of the big attractions are:
Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley)
http://motorbiketoursa.blogspot.com/2013/10/the-moon-valley-la-valle-de-la-luna.html
Valle de la Muerte (Death Valley)
The Geysers
http://motorbiketoursa.blogspot.se/2013/10/the-geysers.html
The Salt Lakes.

 I will cover these with some pictures and info! - Coming soon!

A ´Mining tour´ in the Chilean mountains

So, on my map, the beautiful road towards La Punta Choro were identical to the road leading through the interior up to Huasco, where I wanted to finish the day. "Great!" I thought to myself (seriously misinformed!) as I wanted to enjoy more of this stunning landscape. - For my birthday (coming up soon) I wish for a map with elevation indicated, especially since I don´t think Peru nor Bolivia will be much easier! :)

And the truth is, I fully enjoyed the morning, perhaps the best route I have taken this far on my trip. The dirt road going through a wide empty landscape with no one but me, and a few wild goats and donkeys! Moreover, without the otherwise common wind, I fully enjoyed the 25HP and comfortable dirt road leading on towards the horizon! I thought to myself: "Man! This is what I have been dreaming about! Whoo hoo!" Accelerating a bit more* :)

Wild donkeys

Goats on the run!

When I arrived to El Morado, I kindly asked for directions of an old gentleman. With his think Chilean accent he (strongly) advised me head back to the highway, but likewise indicated my desired route up north. When I came to the cross road between these two, I noticed an acute drop in quality, but thought to myself; "eh, can´t be that bad! And how boring isn´t the highway!" This is where you should heed the advice of the old man: Head straight toward Ruta 5!

(Mom and dad, the following text is highly exaggerated for story-telling purpose!*) 

It turns out to be a pure mining road with nothing but big trucks and huuge mountains for the better part of the day. Truthfully, I have not seen anything more epic, nor driven anything more extreme in my life. As I was continuously hoping for better road conditions, I had always passed the "let´s go back" point and thus continued on forward. Into the deep valleys of the colossal mountains, through narrow passage ways, up the steep mountain sides on extremely snaky and at times sandy (big No No for motorbikes) roads, and down the other side. At the crest you could see the continuation of the road on the neighbouring mountain tops, swindling up and down the mountain sides. Epic, but a morale killer! :)

Looked liked abandoned machinery

You can make out the road rolling over the landscape

Snaky roads eh!

With at times little hope of ever escaping this endless landscape of mountains, and a killing desert-like heat, hope was rejuvenated with help from friendly truck drivers, always surprised to see a motor biker this far off-road! ... :) Finally, I started to see road signs again, and thought to myself, "Now we can´t be too far away from civilization!". jajaja,... Sure, after another master decent, and an hour through a hilly landscape, I finally arrived at highway 5 again! 

I don´t recommend this route to anyone, who is not up for an extreme adventure ofc!

It was very scenic, and for sure something I will never forget! Now onward on roads actually recommended to me, towards San Pedro de Atacama!  - Over n out

La Punta de Choros

Punta de Choros was something most people had recommended to me, so I was determined to go (even if I had to find a household to sell me gas before heading out to the coast). So after refuelling in little Trapiche, I left the highway behind and took on the dirt road past the nearby mountains and into the distance. - The ride out to the coast was astonishing and I was forced to take a short break to experience the complete silence and the immense landscape, even though the sun was setting over the red horizon.

After driving through the vast and empty expanse of dessert, with one or two encounters of wild donkeys I finally arrived at the small coastal town. I found the sandy streets deserted and had to look for someone to ask about accommodation and food. After consulting one of the local supermarkets, and negotiating with a camping site, I was able to settle for the night, with still an hour left of sunset. - With collected wood from the beach, I had a fire lit and some food cooked over the burning coal. The only companion on the campsite decided to make me company!

Punta de Choros is a small fishing village with just a few hundred people, but gets filled to the limit during the summer season. The hundred or so buildings and its surrounding environment allow you the time and space for both peace and reflection. On the second day, there was no discussion but to lie in the hammock on the beach when the sun was setting. Still, the main attraction is the three nearby islands, that exhibit an epic variety of flora and fauna, among them: Humboldt Penguins, sea-lions and dolphins.

The agenda for the next day was the tours of the famous Isla de Dama. The daily tours range between 10-15000 pesos, which is well worth the +3 hour tour of the three islands, both in English and Spanish. We were lucky to have calm waters, and were therefore able to go cruising on the West side of the islands with some dolphins! Also, for the first time in my life, I saw penguins!!! - It is fascinating the flora and fauna on the islands, with many interesting birds and beautiful flowers. Las Damas is the one island you get to disembark, and take a 45 min tour around the island. Very recommended!

Humboldt Penguin

Dolphins!!

Sea-lion

The magnificent atmosphere, giving a sense of end of the world place, made me want to stay for several more days. But "no rest for the wicked"... at least not for now. After two nights in La Punta Choro I´m hitting the road again!

The island Damas where you get to disembark

I definitely recommend visiting this area, especially if you are travelling on bikes or in a car. I am aware that the small and quite village renders a very different vibe in the summer season, though nothing can take a way the beautiful sunset and the amazing flora and fauna on the three nearby islands.  :)

Andacollo and Stargazing

So before leaving La Serena, I really wanted to visit an observatory to fully experience the incredible night sky of this region. I decided to go somewhere I hadn´t been yet, thus the small town Andacollo just an hour from La Serena. With no altitude indications on my map, I was yet again surprised by the gigantic climb up the mountains to finally breath out in Andacollo at 1100 m above sea level. It was a beautiful drive though!

The old mining village of Andacollo is not very big at all, but treasures the Holy Virgin of Rosario of Andacollo, currently found in Templo Chico. I was told that, as La Serena was at several occasions attacked and burned by pirates during the 1500s, the Spaniards hid the the Holy Virgin to protect her. By time this secrete passed out of knowledge, and by chance found again by indigenous miners. Today the town owns its name to the virgin, and puts on celebration twice a year in her name. The "big" celebration around Christmas, and the "small" the first weekend of October.  

 - And as always with celebrations in Chile, the police will not miss the opportunity to devotedly patrol.

Accommodation. Littile did I know that this particular weekend was the gathering for the "small" celebration, so I was lucky to find some accommodation for the night. I have now come to accept that there are no more hostels in this region, but "hostales", more like private rooms for 2-4 people which generally cost more. I was able to negotiate a fair price for my stay at hostal Kullu Kuri for $10,000 / night. 

 http://www.hospedajesandacollo.cl/cms/index.php/hospedajes/hostal-kullu-kuri.

1

I had to find my way up to the observatory on my own, but turned out to be alright with thanks to the very helpful town folk, despite the dark night. I eventually arrived at the top of the 200-300 m tall "hill", and for a mere 3500 pesos enjoyed a splendid tour. We were told that there is a respective summer and winter "night sky", and since we were currently in the spring, none of the "skies" showed perfectly clear. Nonetheless, the incredible night sky left me the biggest impression! 

For more info and booking:  http://www.ingservtur.cl/collowara%20Observatory.html#

Andacolla and the Collowara observatory is a good day-trip from La Serena, including a sight-seeing of the town and stargazing at night. It is definitely not necessary to stay the night if you go by car or through a tourist agency.









On my way down the next day, I say people walking on the road, up this "gigantic climb". I thought, surely the buss has broken down or something... After seeing more and more people walking up along the road, I come to realize how important this religious festival must be. jajaja, But I was on the way to my own spiritual retreat, La Punta Choros!

1) Picture from www.ingservtur.cl

La Serena - Coquimbo

Coquimbo is a small fisherman town with an important shipping port in the area. I have been Couch Surfing here for the last few days, enjoying the proximity to some impressive landscapes and small, hidden villages in the mountains. Everything just a day-trip away! But even though most of the attractions lie either outside the city or in the neighbouring town La Serena, there are still a few things you should definitely check out in Coquimbo.



Coquimbo is small and easy to get around in, even in a vehicle as road signs show you the way to most of the tourist attractions.There is a notable difference in tempo here compared to Santiago. I noticed this especially as I struggled with the slow paced pedestrians on the sidewalk downtown. I was finally able to register my motorcycle at this point as El Registro Civil had finally opened after their tree week on strike, and thus cruised around town to get all the paper work done! Everyone is very friendly and helpful.

Fishermen walking in the shallow water with their nets

At seven in the morning you will see the fishermen return with their catch and later sell it in the Coquimbo Fish Market. Since I was not able to make it down in time for the actual market, just in time for a delicious plate of fish and rice, I found another blog describing their "heaven on earth" experience indulging in the rich variety and taste that you will find. (with great photos!)

Funny! - When I took this shot, I heard this noise I really could place. As I walked a little closer for another shot, I noticed what was the source of this noise, Sea Lions indulging their part of the fishermen´s catch!

http://struanandannainchile.blogspot.com/2010/12/la-serena-beach-coquimbo-fish-market.html

Immediately as you enter Coquimbo from the south, you will notice a big cross on a hill across the bay. The Third Millenium Cross Monument, a gigantic cement cross from which you can oversee the whole town and its surrounding. The structure is impressive, especially close up. For $2000 you can take an elevator all the way up to the "arms" for a spectacular view. It also includes access to the second level where you find more biblical sculptures.  

Here are some more information if you are interested. 

http://www.welcomechile.com/coquimbo/third-millenium-cross-monument.html

The view from the top!

On the way over to La Serena, I took the route along the beach on my motorbike which my Couch Surfing host had recommended me. It clearly showcases La Serena as a very popular summer resort with innumerable residence buildings, pubs, bars, beach-soccer goals, and an seemingly endless beach. I can only imagine what a stellar beach town it is in the summer, with all the people in search for summer heat, beaches, and parties.

View of Coquimbo

Ready to throw the part when the season comes around!

Km after km of residence buildings

So even if you are staying in La Serena enjoying the beautiful beaches and parties, Coquimbo is not far away, and is definitely worth the visit!

La Serena - Valle de Elqui

There is no doubt that Valley Elqui is one of the most recognized and talked about sights around La Serena. So, the day after my arrival, my friend and I loaded up the motorbike with provisions for two days and the very same morning left La Serena behind us. My Couch Surfing host Luie, strongly recommended us to take the motorbike, even though tour buses run regularly. - I did not regret it, the ride is incredible!

As soon as you get out of La Serena you begin to surround yourself with a completely different scenery of impressive mountain chains on both sides. The longer you drive onward towards Vicuña, the more the road starts to curve as you navigate through valleys and alongside the extensive mountainsides. As beautiful as the view is from the road, as demanding of your attention is the road from the snake-like curves. Before and after the tunnel by the river dam, you will find excellent view-points for great photos of the landscape.

Vicuña is a small town which did not seem to offer that much but a stay to eat, relax, and book astronomic tours for starwatching. There is one centre in town, but also in Valley Elqui so we didn´t stay for too long. Don´t forget to check out the Empanada place, they serve over three-hundred types of empanadas! There is also the museum of Nobel prize winner Gabriela Mistral, with a collection of personal items and a library open for the public. I regret we didn´t have the time to stop by. : /


After passing through some (very small) villages, we finally arrived in Pisco Elqui. With a population of just over a thousand people, one square outside the church, and a few bars, it did not take long to find our way around and sort out a hostel. For food, we passed by some expensive looking restaurants close to the main square, and found a vendor selling empanadas and some very delicious french fries farther along the road that we once had come! 

The astronomic tours costs around 7-12 thousand pesos, and from our hostel included a ride to and back from the observation centre. Mainly because we were lacking cash, we decided to do our own tour. So we borrowed a flash light from the hostel, and after the sun had properly set, we marched up one of the neighbouring "hills" to watch the very impressive night sky. It took us a good 30-40 min to get to a decent height above the village, and it was worth every meter of accent. 

So, on the way back we took some time to shoot some pics of the stunningly beautiful landscapes. But as beautiful as the vine covered mountain sides really are, with the various Pisco wineries neatly organized around the valleys, I could not but remember what I had been told just the night before. My friend lived in the valley many years ago before the Pisco plantations were set up, where a magical landscape had once existed, with a brisk river flowing, and trees carrying fresh fruit for everyone. "Now we need to pay to import fruit. But money cannot buy back what was truly lost". - It reminds me of a song by Calle 13; Latioamérica (Don´t miss the video at the bottom!)

Change is inevitable, though it is always tough to hear about the permanent loss of such a loved and cherished place! - Here are some pics of the still stunningly beautiful landscape!

In the end, there is so much to do in the valleys surrounding Elqui, apart from enjoying the peaceful and harmonic atmosphere. I really would have liked to stay for at least a few more nights to fully breath in the spiritual breeze, explore the nearby valleys, and visit the numerous Pisco wineries in these parts. The hostels do have a lot of information. I also recommend doing some research on the internet beforehand. - Enjoy!