...arriving to Chaiten and La Carretera Austral!

I booked a ferry from Castro / Chiloé to Chaiten to take the notorious Carretera Austral deeper into Patagonia, leaving big cities, asphalted roads, and comfort behind!

Sunday morning. I had a comfortable breakfast at the hostal I was staying at and after saying good-bye, I headed for the ferry, very close by. As I arrived, I passed all the backpackers waiting for their turn, comfortably cruising by. I must admit I was a bit nervous, as to how they would secure my bike for the 6 hour boat ride. 

No problem, jammed tight in-between to fairly large vehicles, there was nothing that could possibly go wrong! I gathered food and water duration of the trip, and settled down in my chair with some Swedish metal in my ears (Meshuggah!) 

The ride out the archipelago was neat, and I was happy to be on my way to Chaiten. The cold breeze and the quiet landscape was a soothing experience. Travelling alone on a bike sometimes puts you in a solitary mood, comfortable just being by yourself. Still, many of the hippie-backpackers on the boat and I were later going to set up camp together on the shores of Chaiten, and have a very pleasant night on the beach around the campfire. 

I tried to get comfortable in my chair to pass the hours, but did not accomplish any decent sleep. At one moment though, as I glimpsed toward the window that only gave a way a small bit of the scenery outside, I saw an unusually and almost tropical mountain covered with green, green trees. I gave in to my curiosity and stepped outside.

My arrival to Chaiten was like nothing I had every imagined. The town, only hosting a one or two thousand inhabitants, lie outstretched right at the foot of a tall rock, which is only the doorstep to the mountainous landscape of the region. The infamous volcano Chaiten that desolated the entire national park of Pumalín, is just some 20 km north (3hr hike to the crest and back) visible with volcano dust escaping from its interior. 

Chaiten in the last rays of sunset

with the volcano in the background

After consulting some of the various hostels in town, I realized that camping on the beach was the thing to do, and thus followed my new-found backpacking friends (from all around the world). After setting up camp, I was obligated to try the wide-stretched beach under the tires of my bike. Thankfully without any punctures, yet at times difficult to grip the fine sand, I had a blast!

The next day was one of them, when you rather sleep in late and hope you wake up in a better state. At last, I forced myself out of the tent, and to some decent breakfast. I was not going to let the day slip by just like that, and decided to explore the national park, thus got up on the bike and headed off. Not surprisingly, I struggled a bit with the sun and an increasing pain in my head, but I fully enjoyed the spectacular views of the park

I picked up a hitchhiker, Tom, and brought him all the way to Caleta Gonzalo on the other side of the park. I was rewarded with a spectacular view of where the ferry from La Carretera Austral embarks. Although you see mountains and lakes about everywhere in Patagonia, it never gets old, or at least not so far!    

The next day I was off to Futaleufú and some amazing river rafting! ...and of course impressive mountains and beautiful valleys.