Toward Argentina and La Patagonia

And the rain finally set, just for a day. It was time to go to Argentina and the world renowned Bariloche. I followed the road from Pucón toward the Andes, through impressive valleys and lakes up in the mountains. 

Crossing the border was painless except for the long line-up. But I eventually got through, and could cruise relaxed toward San Martin in Argentina! 

Yet, when the sun was about to set and I was very close to San Martin, I encountered heavy winds and rain. With much effort I made it into town, and could only think about a warm shower. Maybe it shouldn't have been a surprise, but absolutely everything was booked, they told me at the tourist information. "So what do I do now??!" 

Fortunately, there were still ample availability at the camp sites. So I set off, found the closest one, set up camp and cooked some delicious pasta with tomato sauce before it I could finally crawl into my sleeping bag!

Top of the world - Volcano Villarrica

Villarrica and Pucón is a centre for outdoor activities, camping, and just relaxation on the shores of a lake beside majestic mountains. The truth is that there is enough adventure to keep one busy for months, not to mention the skiing season. After visiting the various agencies on the main street O´Higgins, I had my list of things to do set, but I soon realized that I was out of time. After weighing my options I opted for what I had been recommended by people I had met on the way; to ascend the impressive volcano Villarrica. I was to set out early the next morning.

So we gathered at the office in the early morning for a briefing and get ourselves equipped for the ascent. But the enthusiasm of the 15 man group was deeply shaken as our guide explained the real bad weather forecast that was scheduled to arrive during the afternoon. It made me a bit nervous, as I was so determined to reach the summit. Nonetheless, we huddled into the vans that would take us to the base of the volcano. The night before, the elderly couple that was hosting me made sure I was well prepared with food. In fact, my entire backpack was filled to the limit with water and food. 

Let´s do it!

The weather looked great with clear skies and little wind when we parked at the base of the volcano, but our hopes were misguided as the bad weather was due at 1400 and we still had the 5 hour hike up the volcano in front of us. After a brief meeting, toilet visits, the guides were eager to get going, even more so myself. Along with a few other parties, we set our slow but calculated pace and began the ascent for the summit.

The slow pace proved effective with the high inclination and altitude which made any rapid endeavour a foolhardy exhaustion. I was made aware that just increasing the pace slightly immediately made my legs sore and heavy, but surprisingly enduring at the lower pace! With a few breaks on the way, we made the glacier and were instructed of how to use the basic mountaineering equipment we had carried with us. From this point, you could actually see the summit, "Can't be more than 30 min left!" - ... 2 hours to go! 

A true mountaineer

The summit in sight!

The closer we got to the summit, the more limited were we by time, the clouds rapidly rising from below, and people becoming increasingly tired. At one point we had clouds fly in from the side to almost completely cut off our vision. With a last desperate rush the last 15 min, we made it to the summit against all odds and without any margin. To tell you the truth, we barely had time to take a photos before we were forced to start our descent.

Another volcano above the cloud line

This was the part I had for some time looked forward to, and I was becoming increasingly excited. All the fatigue disappeared, replaced by childhood excitement! To no ones surprise, there never any doubt who would go second after our guide.

As the fog had settled and only allowed for a meter or two of vision, I have no photos to show the bob-slide-like-experience we had as we descended the glacier. With increasing speed I was often forced to apply the axe as a break to avoid shooting out of the slide, or get painfully long airtime from the bumps. 

When we were all used to the limited vision and the basic sliding-technique, the whole group relaxed and fully enjoyed the descent, with smiles and laughter! Still the weather turned worse by the minute with less visibility and stronger winds. But our guides knew the mountains well and directed our descent without fault. At the end of the glacier, we "stepped" the soft volcano sand as we (the few of us with excess energy reserves) ran down to the bottom! 

At the summit!

Despite, or thanks to the grim weather conditions I think we got the whole package: sun and clear weather, clouds and fog, and finally snow wind and rain! Not to mention volcano dust and smoke! As climbing the volcano had been highly recommended to me, I strongly recommend this in turn. 

Thank you Volcán Villarrica for an excellent experience! The guides were professional and always attentive to the group as a whole! With the lowest price, and an outstanding service! 

For more information visit: http://tourvolcanpucon.com/

Villarica and Pucón

I saw many hints along the way that Villarrica and Pucón would be a very popular summer resort. Just off the shore to Lake Villarrica, with high mountains and the impressive Villarrica volcano in the backyard, this is simply a paradise for those looking for adventure as well as relaxing on the beach. When I asked about accommodation in the area earlier on my trip, I could not believe what I was told!

Take the 4-wheeler around the water side
in Villarrica

While Villarrica is more of a quieter and smaller town, where you will find a lot of artesenal work from the area, various adventure agencies, and two museums, Pucón is really the centre of the resort with ample number of agencies, bars and accommodation.  Along the main street O´Higgins you will find everything you could possibly need, and Eltit offers good quality food for for a cheap buck (which otherwise is fairly expensive). 

Pucón renders more of a, perhaps German
European architecture with a soothing feel

Volcano Villarrica

When I arrived to Pucón, it was the last day of sun before a 5 day streak of rain. So I can´t really speak with my actions, but the few things you really should do before you leave this area are: #1 climb the volcano #2 Hourse back riding (visiting the Mapuche territory [the indigenous people from the area]) #3 River rafting! Furthermore, there is endless places to visit, hikes to do, lakes to see, hot springs to enjoy etc, and in the winter, why not go up the mountain for some skiing!

So really, there shouldn´t be a surprise, that almost all of Chile and Argentina pilgrim to Villarrica / Pucón, to enjoy the summer vacation months! I had a hard time to believe that a welcome committee with cardboard signs saying "Cabin / Lodge / Rooms available" as you turn into Villarrica from the west. True as you would expect, the prices are anything but cheap, but maybe more importantly, I couldn´t find anything fitting my budget as a lone traveller. 

I searched around at various hostals for anything under US$ 50, but alone it was very hard to find. But as I was about to leave yet another hostal, the receptionist told me to wait. After calling a friend of hers, I was offered a room in the home of a very hospital elderly couple. They provided both a homely environment and went great lengths to give me advice on what to do in the area and in La Patagonia for when I finally get there!  

I was able to climb the volcano, but just before the rain arrived to Pucón! It turned out to be quite an adventure!! 

Lake Villarrica

People I meet on the way

It is always enlightening stop and talk to people on the way. To learn about new cultures, new ideas, and new ways of thinking! 

Angol - La Piedra del Águila (the eagle rock)

I had arrived at Angol the day after 7 Tazas, and decided to make a short detour to see the Eagle Rock which I had been told was just 30 min away from the city of Angol and offered a panoramic view from the Andes mountain range to the Pacific Ocean. But, the day did not turn out as I had imagined. Not even remotely! 

It was just one of those days you when should really go back to bed and try to wake up again to a new day. But I paid for my accommodation and hit the road despite the sour mood I was in. I debated in my head whether I should visit the eagle rock and possibly get lost on the forest roads in the mountains, or simply avoid possible complications and hit the highway for a peaceful drive south. I concluded that taking a deep breath should set me right and ready for a visit to the Eagle Rock. -How hard could it possibly be to find it?! 

The gravel road from the city immediately led me higher up into the mountain, and I kept track on my progress on my map, but realized soon that such a task was meaningless with such a lack of detail. With steep inclinations, sudden bumps and rocks in the way, and a lot of gravel, I had to be ever alert and to limit my speed to ~30km/h. At one point, the road led on out into an open landscape with farms, lots of animals, and even worse road conditions at times. As I passed the 2 hour mark, I finally came to the guardhouse at the park entrance (some 30 min!).

View to the south

Now, I had to pay a ridiculous fee to see this special rock. Moreover, there was no exit to the south as shown on my map, but I´d have to take a detour of aprox. 100km. - With a far too long detour already, I was feeling the hanger (hunger + angry) come to a boiling point. It was time to cool-down, eat some lunch, and take a quiet moment to reconsider my options. But I had come too far already to turn around! "I had to see this rock!" So eventually I paid the fee and continued the last 10km up to the rock.

to the east

to the west

I must admit that walking in the old forest was soothing for both body and soul. I took a good while to enjoy the tremendous panoramic view from this famous Piedra del Águila. Although I was not able to distinguish the ocean out west, it was nothing that made the experience any less enjoyable. I also came to the conclusion that I was not going to reach Temuco as I had hoped, but was left to look for accommodation along the way. 

Despite reaching the rock, I was still agitated with a sour mood. Still, by the time I was leaving the park, I started to get comfortable with the gravel road and could safely increase the speed and I found myself enjoying it. At one point I came to a cross road, with a road leading south to a city on the main road, "a shortcut for sure!" Even though the road changed color to orange - now a real dirt road, I set out south with high spirit!

I soon started to notice deep tracks in the road, from heavily loaded lumber trucks (??) without a doubt, the road now offered a lot more surprise-obstacles such as deeper holes and bumps, even steeper slopes (where I had normally seen switch-backs) and some flooded parts with water up over the wheels. With a serious lack of road signs, one try to stay on the main road and hope for the best, but in this case there was really no telling where the main road continued.

Around one corner, I stumbled upon some lumberjacks (much like the miners I met when I was lost in a mining area up north), starring at me perplexed. "What #$%& is this guying doing out here???!" But with a plead for direction, they enthusiastically told me to continue straight on. I seemed to still have a lot of kms to go, because there was really no sign of coming closer to civilization. As I drove on, I asked some farmers and cow herders for counsel, and my spirit was momentarily lifted with hopes of seeing paved roads again.

Just 2 hours short of dusk, I had found myself with an amazing nature around me. I navigated through and between steep mountains covered with thick forest and a frisky stream running by the road. Instead of a dirty forest road, I enjoyed a gravel road along the mountain side with a full view of the valleys I passed. Eventually I came upon a perfect camping spot by the river well covered from the road. I really wanted to stay out in the nature, which almost immediately ruled out looking for accommodation in the nearest town. 

After putting some pasta to cook, I quickly set up my camp, enjoyed a bath in the river entirely alone (apart from the cows cruising down the other side). When my delicious tuna-tomato river-pasta dish was done, I sat down to regard the long and eventful day. 

"Could this day really have come to this! Sitting and enjoying a warm meal, next to a river, in the middle of a forest covered valley!" We all have our bad days, but working through all the obstacles on my way really paid off this day! A day I will not easily forget! Moreover, I have rarely seen a brighter night sky when the sun had finally set and the stars appeared.

- 

The next day I started to see power lines along the road, "can´t be far now!". Eventually I was on paved marvellous roads again, and bound for the beautiful summer paradise of Villarrica and yet a surprise I had not anticipated!

Las 7 tazas - The 7 cups

My itinerary has purposefully been extremely vague (almost to the point of non-existent) with the course set south. Apart from the big destinations such as Pucón, Chiloé in Chile, and San Martin and Bariloche in Argentina, the remaining destinations are yet to be noted down, and I am very excited to see how it turns out in the vast Patagonia farther south. But, "7 Tazas" (7 Cups) was stubbornly added to my itinerary by a good friend from Valparaiso,...let´s go!

The first cup from the bridge above

7 Tazas lies just 65 km east up in the mountains from Molina (just south of Churico), but do expect dirt road, and farther up the mountains extremely worn out road conditions, in which I saw several cars struggled to get through. Yet, with my Honda Tornado I had little problem cruising by the line ups and navigate the big bumps and and holes in the steep sections of the road. When I finally arrived, paid the entrance, and had the park guardians look over my bike and bags, I was almost instantly amazed as I beheld the first "cup" from a bridge over the deep and impressive chasm.

Then you follow a trail that takes you along the stream from where you can see the rest of the cups and the incredible separation of the rocks, with the stream far below. After visiting a few view-points, and as a reward for descending a mighty staircase/trail, you arrive at the point of the last waterfall and a scenic beach from which you can enjoy the impressive sight. Although the beach is anything but easily accessible, I bet most of the people come here just enjoy this piece of paradise. 

The view from where you start the decent to the beach

Paradise, the last waterfall of the 7 Cups

...and the beach, which you could only access through
shoulder-deep water!

In the late afternoon on my way back

After enjoying a bit of the sun and the 7 cups of waterfalls, I decided to set up camp in El Parque Ingles (the English Park), where according to the rumours most of the party-folks hang out, but giving that is was Monday, I instead enjoyed some grilled food with a few new friends I made during the day.  

On the way out from the park the next day

As I thought this would just be a few-hours-stop to enjoy some beautiful waterfalls, I was mistaken, and with a little more time, I would have stayed a few days to enjoy the various hiking trails in the area. But, I was back on the road again the next day, and bound for an interesting adventure in Angol.

Bye bye, till next time!

     

Quote of the day

Don´t forget:

A friend to a friend is organizing a trip, and I found his promotion video both inspiring and very well done!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFaQxsxlF5A&feature=youtu.be

A rough idea of my trip to La Patagonia

I have been sitting down with my Chilean friend to look discuss a preliminary route down to the Lake District (fr. Temuco to Puerto Montt in Chile) and San Carlos de Bariloche (Argentina), and Chiloé (Chile). From there I have a vague idea of how I want to continue south through Chile, possibly all the way down to Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine. The big question mark right now is how weather and winds will change and affect me when summer turns to fall in March...

From Valparaiso where I am temporarily stationed at the moment, I hope to make fast progress down to Villarrica, just south of Temuco, with a few planned stops along the route. Also Pucón to the east, is highlighted as a must-see destination. To not back-track, I have decided to continue across to Argentina and San Martin de Los Andes and forward to Bariloche.

After a few days in this area, I want to return to Chile via the lake Todos Los Santos with ferry, and later to Puerto Varas. Chiloé is a the island just to the south, and is often described as magically beautiful, hence I plan to cross the island to return to mainland by ferry through Quellón. From here on, I will join the Carretera Austral, which will lead me farther south through wast and more isolated terrain.

From O´Higgins in Argentina, I would like to visit Calafate, with Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas just within reach. - What do you think??

Some reads:
To prepare for a motorbike trip to La Patagonia
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/country/chile/patagonia
Fuel on Carretera Austral
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/south-america/carretera-austral-futaleufu-going-south-60260
What to see in Chile
http://www.roughguides.com/destinations/south-america/chile/

Valparaiso - A break in beautiful Valpo before going South

I am stoked to be back in the beautiful Valparaiso, although I struggled to navigate the maze of narrow and jumbled streets to find my friends house. We went out last night for some beers, and even though it was Monday, I saw lots of people out. Might be because all students are on summer holidays. The plan for the day, enjoy the stellar weather on the beach!

"Vamos a la playa" - Lets go to the beach!

My friends house is located in the midst of the house-covered hills, with all sort of improvised architecture that gives Valparaiso its unique charm. It is mind blowing to walk through the streets and marvel at all the graffiti, houses in all colors and forms, impressively packed so tightly together in the steep hills surrounding Valparaiso. No need to say that the pace of life is more relaxed and down-to-earth here, but it is also a city of many universities, hence lots of students and a good atmosphere for drinks and beers. (See article, link below)

I am also given some first class advice on my trip south, and I will post the preliminary itinerary shortly. 

Also see:

Beautiful valparaiso: http://motorbiketoursa.blogspot.com/2013/09/beautiful-valparaiso.html

Santiago - A week of preparation, reunions and summer

So after a week in Santiago (a little longer than I had hoped) I am on the road again. I had a blast seeing some of my friends again, stopping by Manuel Montt and Bellavista for good beers and party, and enjoying both the beer and the Jazz festival. During the days, I have also been able to get up to date with equipment for the South (cold / rainy / windy weather) and some extra compartments on the bike! ;)

Back on Lira I was out hunting for extra bags to put on my bike. It looked like it would take up to a week to get it done, but once I actually got to talk to the mechanic, he told me: "That will take me 2 hours!" I also added winter gloves to my inventory.

On the weekend, it was time to enjoy the beer festival. There was a good selection to choose from, although they charged a quite a bit. But with live-music, good company, and good beers, we really enjoyed the event. I found one favorite beers from Belgium, Delerium and Gulden Draak, which naturally had the longest line-ups! Also, there were quite a few new styles of beers I hadn´t seen before, Coco-nut, Pineapple, strawberry etc. Not bad, but "not my glass of beer". 

Something different

Belgium first class beer

To fit everything possible into as few days as possible, we went to see the outdoor Jazz concert by the river in a park down town. The hot days pay off at night with very a comfortable temperature. We found a spot across from the river and could from a distance perfectly savour the excellent Jazz notes and rhythm. The concert was a great end on a busy but rewarding week back in Santiago.  I´ll be back soon enough!

Ready to hit the road again! 

See also:

Buying a motorbike in Chile http://motorbiketoursa.blogspot.com/2013/09/on-topic-of-buying-bike-in-chile.html
Bellavista & Manuel Montt in Santiago http://motorbiketoursa.blogspot.com/2013/09/the-must-see-nightlife-and-culinary_10.html