La Serena is another important destination in Chile with much to offer in terms of outdoor, coastal life and star-watching at its numerous observatories. It is hard to miss, but you have to keep in mind to plan to stay for some days to fully enjoy the stunning environment and nature surrounding La Serena. The road from Santiago is a long, but (unless road constructions) easy ride.
I managed to to fall over though. The height of my bike (or the short length of my own limbs) still make it tricky at times to manoeuvre getting on and off the bike. At this point, I was about to get off to take a break and stopped at an unfavourable inclination, which led to her falling over with bags and everything.
I thereafter had to take off the fist-cover, as it was interfering with my front-break. While trying to fix this a truck stopped on the other side of the highway, and a friendly Chilean (with 36 years of experience) offered to help me out. Moreover, he shared some very important advice, some I guess I conveniently have neglected. - Tools to fix a flat tire among the more important things. ... : / jeje
I will post a summary of my experiences, mistakes, and things to keep in mind regarding motorbikes, maintenance, and equipment needed!
The rest of the way passed by without any issues. You need to keep in mind your gas-status because there is just over 100 km between some of the gas stations. When I hit the coast line, the wind grew significantly in strength and surprised me at times with strong cast-winds. It was more of an annoyance than anything else.
Long stretches of nothing but wind and windmills! :)
Valparaiso is the very popular resort on the coast less than two hours from Santiago. The area compromises several towns along the coast with very different atmospheres. I stayed in Quilpué (right next to Valparaiso and Viña del Mar - the two most famous destinations) with a friend through Couch Surfing. Valparaiso is definitely on the To-do-List, and moreover; driving through the country-side outside of Santiago is pretty stellar too!
There are (if you are adventurous) two ways from Santiago to Valparaiso, going west on highway 68 is the quickest, and going north on highway 5 to get off at Tiltil the more adventurous. The later shows a bit more of Chile and the beautiful mountainous area surrounding Santiago. I missed my turn at Tiltil (actually never noticed it) and thus continued north (as opposed to west) onto a stunningly beautiful drive I would otherwise have missed.
The road runs between rolling green "mountains", up and down through the passes, and through small picturesque towns where the animals seem to go freely. The road swirls along the mountain sides on narrow and windy roads forcing you to stay alert in every turn. (Great curve-taking -practice! Watch your speed though!)
It is a detour worth considering, and definitely recommended if time allows! From Tiltil, it will take you right back to F-10 leading on towards the coast! - The drive not only offers an incredible view, but is also very fun to ride.
Once I was back on F-10, I had to slalom down the mountainside on what was still a relatively high-speed road (though the curve-taking speed was lowered to 30-40 km/h). This is something I have never encountered before and was something I enjoyed, along with the setting sun over the mountains in the horizon! (Unfortunately no photo :/ ) - From there on you enjoy a nice cruise to Limache, and get back on the "autopista" (highway) to Quilpué, Viña del Mar, or Valparaiso.
I took highway 68 back to Santiago, and it does also offer a scenic view.
You ask ten people what they think about Valparaiso, I bet they all say something different. It is truly a city of diversity and spontaneity, evident in the architecture, the infamous graffiti culture, and the improvised city structure. The city hosts many students due to its numerous universities, and is therefore a thriving place for pubs and nightlife. You will not leave Valparaiso without a strong impression, however you choose to spend your time.
Valparaiso is one of the most important ports in Chile, and the actual capital in the province, although Santiago is the capital of Chile! However, the city is mostly famous for its artistic vibe and city structure.
As the streets in Valpo does not follow normal city patterns, its very easy to get lost, or not find your way in the maze of artistic graffiti and improvised architectural brilliance. I chose to stay with a Couch Surfing friend (partly due to parking issues) in Quilpué, just right next to Valpo with direct bus-connection, thus enjoyed a private tour by her close friend from Valpo!
(One should keep in mind to not wander into the more troubles zones of the city, usually the upper parts of the hills.)
She explained how the city has emerged without a real city plan, hence allowed the city to develop freely without much restrictions. Although this has also allowed lager investments to take advantage of the popular resort, by raising high resident buildings here and there, which many claim to dissrupt the "magic of Valpo". Still, I think maybe four years at university here may be sufficient time to really get to know the heart of this unique city.
..I wish
And yeah,..my new ride from Valpo! __->
The city has in recent decades developed into a mecca for street graffiti artists, not only from Santiago, but from around the world. Although it is no longer allowed to paint as freely as before, there is still an open attitude towards the artistic form. The truth is, you see everything from "ghetto" letters to stunning works of art about everywhere in the city. When I come back (without a doubt I will), I will be sure to take a street graffiti tour to fully appreciate this cultural treasure.
Valparaiso was in 2002 declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO!
Valpo, a mecca for street graffiti artists! -Watch the video! !,,!_
Valparaiso truly possess a very unique atmosphere, something you will not find in many places. You should definitely make a stop in Valpo for a few days! I recommend, to get the most out of your visit, Couch Surfing to better get in touch with the locals (if this suits your style), or a hostel, where plenty of tourist information is always available!
For about a month, it has been a common conversational topic, the grand fiesta of Chile on the 18th of September! Just last weekend, I went out to experience what no one should miss before leaving Santiago, to drink the infamous Terremoto (in English, "earthquake"), which apparently is super popular during this week of celebration! La Piojera and El Hoyo are two popular places that serve this national drink.
La Piojera, received its name by a Chilean President who called it Piojera (in English "a place of lice") as he was not very found of it, and so it became known as just that. It lies right next to the metro stop, Cal y Canto. It offers really hearty and tasty Chilean "home cooking", and the notorious Terremoto in the bar. When we were in the middle of enjoying our meals when an older gentleman entered the salon with his guitar and started to play the cueca. After a song or two, people stood up from their tables to join the music in the traditional dance! - Veery neat!
What happened after my first Terremoto yet makes me laugh out loud. The Chilean people I have gotten to know, perhaps more calm, reserved, and careful than their neighbours Argentina, were mostly unable to walk straight, many being led out (or carried), and the majority at a noticeable level of intoxication! My friends told me it is usually not this roudy, but then again, the 18th is just around the corner.
In the end, the majority was happily enjoying their Terremotos, despite what seemed to have been a big earthquake.
There were tables filled with empty cups of El Terremoto
So, this is what happened the weekend before the 18th, Im expecting nothing less on THE day! ;)
So here she is! Entirely in black, and way bigger than the last bike I had, 125cc Patagonian Eagle. I have only rounded up a few hundred km so far, but I´m already getting very comfortable with the height, size, and power.
A few things I have noted is, there is no RPM meter, nor liters of gas indicator. When I asked in the store about the latter, he told me I just had to calculate. "Just start a count of km after you fill up the tank!" - Great!
Otherwise she is running very well. A notable difference to a 125cc. I will head back to Santiago in a 5-7 days to get the last paperwork done, and complete the first service with oil change etc.
Santiago is a metropolitan city with a lot of very distinct neighbourhoods, all with their own charms and "onda" (Spanish word for "energy"). Therefore, it is a good idea to have at least some idea of what you will be seeing, and that you see the things you are interested in! I do recommend taking a tour to find the true "onda" of Santiago, but I will also highlight a few stops that you cannot miss!
The city tours of Santiago
These are offered in English and are well-informed! The bike tour offers you a nice bike ride that will take you around the most essential building and neighbourhoods at a comfortable pace. The free tour starts at Plaza de Armas, and will take you on a 4 hr tour around Santiago to see all of the highlights! http://www.biketours.cl/ http://www.freetoursantiago.cl/when_where.html
Los Barrios:
There is a lot to see in the various neighbourhoods in Santiago. I recommend turning to one of the city tours. I worked most of the time I spent in Santiago, and therefore cannot tell you enough.
Los cerros; Santa Lucia & San Cristóbal
As opposed to running up, even if the view is stunning on a clear day,
there is a mechanical lift-system at the base of San Cristóbal in Bellavista
The Virgin Carmen
Stellar view from the top at sunset
View from the run up San Cristóbal
Cerro de Santa Lucia
Santa Lucia lies conveniently close, and does not require a full work-out to reach the top. From there, you are rewarded with a stunning view of the city, the mountains, and perhaps a sunset (especially on a clear day!). There is a little park on the way up, where you can enjoy an ice-cream and relax in the afternoon to an amazing outlook of Santiago.
La Moneda, the castle
Plaza de Armas - The Cathedral
You also find the National Museum,
and lots of shops around the plaza
Plaza de Armas offers culturally the gran Cathedral, the National Museum, and the many activities that take place in the amiable square. There are artists selling their paintings, standing as statues, fountains and lots of birds. Also, it is surrounded by a shopping district where no traffic enters, and offer everything from trendy clothing and cheap markets selling electronics, cloths, hats, to restaurants, american food-chains, and cafeterias.
I was in Buenos Aires looking for a motorbike when I fortunately was advised to go to Chile instead, which I believe all foreigners do in this errand these days. This is mainly due to the strict import/export laws of Argentina and Uruguay, that supposedly protect their ecomonies! : / Anyways, there are a lot of forums on this topic, so make sure to fully up-date and familiarize yourself with the process, paperwork, and what bike that suits your need! I found everything I was looking for, and much more!
My bike
I decided to go for a Japanese bike; therefore Honda since neither Yamaha nor Suzuki have much market in South America. I chose the Tornado 250cc, which seemed like a common bike, and has a really good second-hand price! Also, it is well designed for most terrains, and with an up-right, comfortable driving position that is good for long distances. I added windshield, fist covers, a grill to tie up my luggage, and a bag mounted on the tank.
Forums
Lachy writes a good and well-researched article on the topic at Horizon Unlimited, which helped me to get a good idea of what to expect before buying a bike.
I have read many accounts where a "paper of approval" from previous owner have been an issue crossing some borders. Therefore ask for one!!
Also, Lachy´s article speaks of the various documents you need to "legally" drive your bike on the road, also the insurance you need to pass into the neighbouring countries.
Lastly, always make a copy of your driver´s licence, and all important documents, just-in-case! I also have them scanned and stored online.
Gear
To buy gear, there is an entire street designated to these purchases, Lira (close to Diez de Julio), 10 min walking distance from Metro Universidad Católica, down Lira. Remember to always haggle, as all the stores easily settle with a 15% discount (usually given straight up), to be negotiated down to 20-25%. Also, remember that paying with cash should always get you a better discount! Lastly, do walk around to check other stores to get a good idea of the price and other products that are available before buying anything.
Retailer
I bought my bike at a retailer, as I could not find what I was looking for at http://www.mercadolibre.cl/ and did not have the time to wait. I found it hard to negotiate with the sales people, but I think they all give you a 5% on the bike, and they gave me a 10% on accessories. (Ask if they can throw in some cords and nets to tie your luggage on the bike)
Good luck, and be sure to consult people in forums about this topic!
After having discovered the hidden gem in Chile, the artisanal beer culture, I had to find out more! Cervecería Nacional has always been the ideal place for me to better familiarize myself with the passionate beer entrepreneurs of Chile. Although this place lies a bit removed from the centre, there is really no problem to safely and comfortably find your way there.
For any beer enthusiast, and for all others really, the menu offers a great selection of breweries and types of beer that exist here in Chile. The names of the beers are as crafty as the beers themselves, and none of them that we drank left us disappointed. - Make it a norm, to always order different beers within the group, as to try a greater variety. After two-three beers, we felt ready to move on as many of the beers have up to 10% alc. To accompany the beers, food is also offered. We ordered a pizza with jalapeños and lots of cheese to somewhat balance with the beers!
I definitely recommend to pass by when visiting Santiago. I´m a huge fan of sharing some quality beers with good friends, over some story telling and a healthy round of laughs!
First round: Politik Kills, Kaf Blue & a Belgium Ale (all of them really good in their respective category)
Upon requesting "the beer I can´t leave without drinking", a Barley Wine I strongly recommend. I believe it was a Rothhammer, the one they have on tap! - Among my friends, the absolute favorite!
¡Saludos po´weon! (like they say it here in Chile, cheers bud!)
I am just about to buy my motorcycle and finally commence my journey! I have talked with various Honda resells after trying to find one second-hand, and will hopefully be able to settle a deal by Monday/Tuesday!
I am looking to buy a Tornado 250cc; -->
and equip it with some extra accessories!
(And hopefully not excessive amounts of luggage!)
I have looked over the route and adjusted certain details. I will aim to drive all the way up to Lima/Peru, through Bolivia, to meet a good friend to my family. He has invited me to take part of his expedition to study the fauna in the Peruvian jungle. After about two weeks in Lima, I will head back to Bolivia, and continue my journey South through Argentina to Mendoza. I will finally finish off the route in mid December in Santiago again.
Highlights noted are, thus far; Valparaiso, the Atacama desert, the salt flats, La Paz, and all the national parks on the way! (Please feel free to leave suggestions!)
Upon my return to Santiago in January 2014, I plan to head South to explore Southern Chile, la Patagonia, and the Southern parts of Argentina!
Although you may encounter Santiago very Europeanized; cold, commercial focused, big-city atmosphere, there are still some Latin roots to be found! It takes time to truly get a good picture of Santiago because all the neighbourhoods breaths a very different vibe. If you are limited by time, there should be no excuse to not visit Bellavista and Manuel Montt!
Gulden Draak, a Belgian favo.
As I was looking for bartender and waiter jobs when I first arrived, I found plenty of opportunities along the street Manuel Montt. This zone has grown to become a thriving, and diverse culinary centre in Santiago, and offers a great variety of cuisine, pubs, and a stunning selection of craft beers from around the world. The street has attracted professional and enthusiastic entrepreneurs to share their passion for food and drinks, and have thus built up a family friendly, artisanal neighbourhood of cuisine and beverages! And conveniently, at night the area transforms into a very popular nightclub scene! (Be sure to check out the Peruvian cuisine!)
Bellavista is another centre of food, drinks and dance, though with more of an artistic and underground culture feel! Pío Nono and Constitución are the two main streets of the neighbourhood packed with bars, restaurants, and nightclubs (leading up from Plaza Italia). The patios fill up with people enjoying just a beer or two in the afternoon, more so during the evening, and peaks around midnight when the nightclubs fill up!
Keep your eyes open for quality street performers!
But the real charm of Bellavista lies in the shadows of its popular radiance, in the calm and old-fashion local bars, which transcends in their cultural heritage and atmosphere. One I visited recently, endorses the acoustic music from the era of the dictatorship, when this type of folklore was band. The atmosphere takes you far away from the popular scene, and lets you recognize and appreciate a culturally very different scene in Santiago. And the "after" (as they also call it here in Chile) we headed for, lied hidden behind what appeared to be just a normal residence door a few blocks from the main street. But after ringing the door bell, it opened up to a thriving party atmosphere early in the morning!
We ran into a Metal concert !,,!_
Graffiti decorated streets
It is a tremndous advantage to go out with a local Chilean to truly find the best places in town. Still causion is always adviced due to their sometimes dubious and greedy character! ;)
